Thursday, October 25, 2012

Goods to Banish Pre-Holiday Gift Anxiety

The past few years have been lean ones for me. Between going to grad school and not working too much, and then having my Masters and still not working too much, I've been forced to adapt to an extremely tactical gift-giving schemata for the holiday season. I carefully balance my funds once October hits, allotting myself enough to buy one or two small gifts per paycheck. I put a lot of emphasis on finding perfect gifts not because I'm materialistic at all, I just really love giving presents that are a bit out of the ordinary. You will never, ever see me at some "One Day Sale" or some such beating down the doors at the mall at 7am in November. To be perfectly honest, I don't even pay that much attention to what people say they want. My holiday pleasure comes from giving gifts that people don't realize they want and need until the second they open them. This is my preliminary list of gifts I wish I could get/gifts I wish I could give.

General Knot & Co. Donegal Lambswool Hopsacking Necktie, $108
General Knot & Co. specially curate vintage fabrics, and then the ties, bow ties, and pocket squares are made by craftsmen right here in the USA. Since vintage fabrics are rare and often available only in small quantities, each piece is unique and has a lot of character. I love the spectrum of browns and reds in this particular tie, but any of their pieces would make something very special of a seemingly ordinary tie gift.

Feather Bow Ties from Our House Vintage and Design, $45-$60
Keeping with the neckwear theme, my very good friend Victoria of Our House Vintage and Design has a really cute collection of feather bow ties, earrings, and collected vintage finds. The feather goods are all handmade from start to finish in her San Francisco studio. These make an unexpected and perfect gift for the edgy and whimsical person in your life. The bow ties also come in necklace form! Our House also sells quality vintage goods like planters, housewears, and clothing if you're looking for something extra rare.

Black Badger White Corian/Titanium and Black Hazard/Titanium Rings, $300-325
Petaluma Supply Co. has proven to be a true oasis of Made in USA/handmade gift lust for me. I could probably write a love song for them and then put it on YouTube and become the next Lady Gaga... but instead I'll just ease into exposing you to all of their amazing wares, (slowly lest your brain explode from awesome-overload). These rings are really neat for people who aren't into jewelry, because they're super durable, not traditional looking at all, yet extremely simple. Each ring takes 3-4 hours to "build," as they say, and the color goes all the way through the ring, so there's no chance of it scratching off. Black Badger rings are made by hand in Sweden by a very talented fellow with a Masters degree in Industrial Design. At around $300 they're a little more than I'm accustomed to spending on gifts, so make sure you only get one for someone you like a LOT.

Field Aesthetic Dopp Kit, $35
In the course of traveling about the Northeast quite a bit working for Dubarry, I noticed both males and females with travel goods that were less than graceful. There's truly no excuse to carry your toiletries in a ziploc freezer bag. However, for people such as myself who prey on unsuspecting gift-receivers by giving things which they need but would never think to buy for themselves, Dopp kits make an amazing present. This one from Field Aesthetic is handsomely constructed from re-purposed military tent canvas, making it much less expensive than a leather one, but still very hardwearing and handsome. As a relatively un-femme female, I would love this for myself as a giant makeup bag OR toiletry bag. Also a bonus, all Field Aesthetic goods are handcrafted in Vermont.

Compass Necklace by Love Nail Tree, $34
I'd like to confess that I have been lusting for this necklace from Victory PDX for months. This may or may not have something to do with the fact that I have the worst sense of direction and am constantly getting lost. I'm a sucker for accessories with utility. Love Nail Tree makes these necklaces in Los Angeles, but Victory has a nice variety of beautiful handmade jewelry in case you don't have the same problem as I do in regards to getting lost.

Terrapin Stationers Olive Bicycle A6 Note Cards, $22
Whether you want to use them as note cards for your gifts, or give them as gifts on their own, you really cannot go wrong with these cards from Terrapin. These are engraved with an olive bicycle and include envelopes with vintage maps lining the inside. They have a ton of designs available, or you can easily contact them for custom work. Family run and handcrafted in New York F***ing City for almost a century, they have some of the coolest stuff around for the discerning stationery/calling card hoarder in your life. 

The list goes on. My current Field Notes is busting with shop and product names of things that I don't want to forget. There's denim, cologne, wall fixtures (seriously), and most recently a growing compendium of equestrian apparel that's manufactured in the USA. So chew on all this awhile, but I will certainly be back in a week or so with another explosion of amazing stuff that you most certainly will NOT find in your local shopping mall. 






Sunday, October 21, 2012

Field Trip: Bayard Cutting Arboretum!

A few shots from my hiking and exploring excursion yesterday, as always wearing my trusty Dubarry Galway boots. Fall is a beautiful season... get outside and enjoy it before winter comes!







Monday, October 15, 2012

Update on our Leather Yourself post!

After my post a couple weeks ago about choice handmade leather goods, Teppei of Teranishi Handcrafted kindly offered to monogram my iPhone case for me if I mailed it back to him. I happily sent my little case in it's original handmade rolltop dust bag on its 3000 mile cross-country journey back to Vashon, WA., knowing that Teppei would certainly do a better monogramming job than I ever could. He posted a photo of the case on Instagram when he received it, and I was relieved to see it made it there safely.


It's less than a week later, and I just got my case back. He was kind enough to clean the leather up for me and freshen my edges (I drop my phone a lot...), as well as doing a stand-up job putting my initials on the belt loop.

Hand numbered from the first run!


Folks, this is why one must shop small. If you buy a phone case from the Apple store, are you going to be able to directly contact the person who made the case and talk to them about it? I'm thinking not. When you shop small, you have the opportunity to establish a meaningful relationship centered on pride, and quality, and accountable craftsmanship. One day, maybe I'll give this case to my grandkid and he or she will see my initials on the back and think that it's really special, the same way I do with anything that's ever been passed down to me.

Once again, you can purchase these cases directly from Teranishi Handcrafted or Trove General Store.

Also, the blog is now on Facebook! LIKE IT.


Friday, October 12, 2012

Field Trip: Trail Riding!

I'm always pretty antsy to get outside, but the first couple weeks of Fall when you christen your light jackets and sweaters are probably the most intense for me. After a long and stressful work week, my friend Samantha and I decided to go trail riding. Going out in the woods to ride is also a nice break from riding in a ring most of the time. Though our trail guide and companions were admittedly not as great as the last time we went to this particular barn, it was impossible not to enjoy tromping through the woods on horseback.

Ariat Quantum Devon Pro Zip Paddock


Leaves are still pretty green!

Sam riding Phil -- gorgeous Paint!



Post-ride with Tex.
Partially due to the chill, and partly because the last time I rode Western with half-chaps the insides of my knees were sore, I opted to wear my full-length chaps. I haven't worn those since I was in high school, so I was definitely pleased that they still fit. My new-ish Ariat paddock boots are so handsome that I've been wearing them for street purposes, but I decided that I was wasting their functionality by not riding in them. Also -- I don't care if you ride English or Western, trails or lessons, it does not make a difference. WEAR A HELMET. My Charles Owen GR8 has served me very well over the years and I will not get on a horse without it.

While it's easy to order riding gear online from big sites, I always recommend taking a trip to your local tack shop and seeing what they have to offer. If you're on Long Island, the Country Riding Shop in Stony Brook has always been my favorite, but if not, a quick Google search will certainly find you the tack store nearest to you. Shop small and local!

Tuesday, October 9, 2012

Fall Picks for Fellas

My favorite time of year for menswear, no question, is fall. I'd take flannel and boots over seersucker and deck shoes any day. Regardless of whether or not there's a man in my life, once the leaves start turning I find myself exploring the men's section of my favorite stores, feeling up the rich tweeds and corduroys and flannels. What follows is a sampling of apparel and accessories that strive towards a woodsy sort of masculinity mixed with an urban sensibility. Please also note that when I label such things as "men's" and "menswear," I'm not implying that these items are exclusively for guys. I've more than once purchased shirts and outerwear from the "men's" department. Regardless of how you gender-identify, you'll appreciate these goods that make the fading away of summer a little less painful. 

Fjallraven Byron Hat, $40

Levi's for Filson Trucker Jacket, $228
Penfield Wayland Navy, $95
Steven Alan Button Shoulder Crewneck Sweater, $265
Woolrich Rescue Jacket, $299
Far too often I see men in the fall wearing gigantic oversized sweatshirts with jeans or sweatpants and sneakers. This makes me cringe, it's such a waste. If summer is the women's season to maximize their wardrobe potential with dresses and shorts and flaunt their figures, fall is when men should rule. Find an excuse to grow a little bit of a beard, throw together some plaids and prints and whatever else that don't quite match. Wear a hat that doesn't have a professional sports team logo on it and preferably one that wasn't chosen specifically because it's the same color as your shoes. The beauty of fall is that you can buy one nice expensive coat or jacket (see above) and wear it over all of your less expensive basics. This is rookie stuff, folks. Hell, get an old leather jacket from a thrift store and buy an eye catching wool scarf from Pendleton or Woolrich to make you look like you're a dude who knows things and thinks about stuff. There's just really no excuse to look sloppy once the weather gets a bit colder. I will now descend from my soap box.






Feel free to also follow the Dappled Waistcoat on Twitter, where I will not infrequently rant about sloppily dressed people and lament the lack of mountains in my life! @dappldwaistcoat

Tuesday, October 2, 2012

Leather Yourself

For people like myself who can't afford to go buying a new bag, pair of shoes, laptop case, etc., every few months, leather is a choice material. When cared for properly, good leather will last you for years and look better the older it gets. I'm often confused by the fact that a lot of people don't get this or at the very least don't care. Growing up in the horse world, leather goods were everywhere. From an early age I learned from my instructors and peers what brands were good, what quality leather looked, smelled, and felt like, and most importantly, how to take care of it. Out on the road at horse shows I've met artisans who make custom leather goods by hand, the old-fashioned way, and I must tell you: there's nothing else like it. In the past several years I've noticed a bit of a boom in small leather crafting businesses all over the country. It has created a really exciting, creative community that has revitalized some of the old traditions and rethought classic designs for practical application in everyday life. Creating products that people actually use and will perhaps even pass on to later generations makes leathercrafting an extremely useful and worthwhile trade. I've collected a little sampling of leather things that I have, or want, or think that people should consider as an attractive and timeless alternative to synthetic, factory-made accessory cases.



Above is my very own Teranishi for TROVE iPhone case, first on the day I purchased it, and then worn in 6 months later. I love this case so much, that I'm not upgrading to an iPhone 5 just so I can keep using it. It is modeled after an old Buck knife case, but with obvious adjustments to suit its new purpose. It has a little pocket under the flap to protect the screen of the phone from the snap, and it also comes in handy to stick a couple of cards and some money if you're going out and want to travel light. The back has a belt loop, which I use all the time when I ride. I've also been meaning to buy a leatherbranding kit so that I can put my initials on it... I guess we'll save that for another post. At $100 it seems like a lot for such a small thing, but my destructive tendencies have had little effect on this case, so I think it's totally worth it. Plus, all of Teranishi's goods are handmade from start to finish on a little island across from Seattle, WA. 



I have a moderate/severe addiction to Field Notes, or rather, Field Notes enables my addiction to writing everything down and making excessive lists in the most aesthetically pleasing way imaginable. I did a LOT of research before I settled on a leather cover for my Field Notes. Factors included: size, bulkiness, color, amount of embellishment, and price. I wanted something very simple and minimalistic, since Field Notes themselves are extremely basic. However, it needed to be sturdy enough to actually protect the notebook and survive bouncing around in my bag and sometimes my back pocket. Price here was also more important than it was with the iPhone case, because an iPhone costs $200+, and cardboard covered notebook costs less than $10. After months of agonizing, I decided upon the leather case from Hellbrand Leatherworks. I'd been following them on Instagram for a while, and when they posted about a limited "Back to School" discount, I jumped on the opportunity. My indecisiveness over color was patiently resolved with Ed over a few emails, where he described each available color and how it wears. My handmade case arrived from Florida just about a week later, and I couldn't be happier. 



There is no end to my recently discovered affinity for copper. When I saw this black leather Skinny Standard belt with a copper buckle from Portland's Tanner Goods, I just about lost my mind. You can mix and match from a few different colors of leather and buckle options, but the black/copper blew my mind. I also love their leather sunglass case, shown here in Indigo.


If Santa brings me an iPad, the first thing I'm buying is this leather iPad sheath from Colsen Keane. This is the Crazy Horse color, but it comes in some less weathered looking leathers as well. It is handmade in North Carolina from one solid piece of leather and hand stitched. The rugged, western vibe of this piece definitely stands apart from the ultramodern, techy looking cases most people are carrying around. And for $115, the investment/protection cost ratio is pretty reasonable. 

 
Working for Dubarry exposed me to a lot of people who had no idea how to care for leather. It doesn't matter how much you're spending on it, or how great the quality of the leather is: if you don't take care of it, it's not going to last. You must remember that leather is essentially skin that is tanned and treated, but is otherwise not receiving nutrients to keep it supple and moisturized. Over time, its natural oils dry out. If you don't replace them by using some kind of cream/oil or your leather, it's going to dry and crack. 

Smooth leather requires different care techniques than suede and nubuck type leathers, so be careful of what you're using and don't be afraid to ask whomever you're purchasing from for tips on care. Creams and oils tend to ruin the texture of sueded leather, so be especially careful of that. Portland's own Otter Wax makes a complete leather care kit with saddle soap, salve (cream), and leather oil, for less than 30 bucks. I haven't personally tried this out yet, but they have an outstanding reputation for leather and cloth waterproofing/protectants, using only natural ingredients.

French sellier Devoucoux's Leather Balsam, or grease as I call it, is specially made to be used on their saddles. Their US rep was kind enough to grease up my very-thirsty saddle at the Middleburg Horse Trials a couple years ago and I could not believe the way it transformed the leather. A healthy application of salve/balsam, followed by around 10 minutes of soaking in time, followed by a nice buff with a clean cloth will reimpregnate your leather with moisture and natural oils, as well as form a waxy, water-repellent coating. For $35 it's a more expensive option, but it's definitely worth having around for emergency leather cases, or just to be used every once in a while.

ALSO... if you have some vintage leather goods kicking around in your closet or basement that seem too far gone and dried out, make a project of getting some good leather treatment stuff and giving it some TLC. It might take more than a couple applications of leather cream, but that old belt/pair of boots/handbag could be given a whole new lease on life!