Showing posts with label vintage fabric. Show all posts
Showing posts with label vintage fabric. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Feels like Fall: 5 Picks to Start the Season!

One year ago this very month, I started a little project I thought I'd call "the Dappled Waistcoat." After traveling around to different horse shows and trade fairs, and meeting people from around the country who oftentimes had given up more lucrative careers to pursue their passion for craftsmanship and product curation, I decided it was time to take to the web and give them their due. Truthfully, I didn't think that I would stick with blogging for that long. I assumed that I'd find myself uninspired and discouraged by the daunting "blogosphere," and that my voice would go unheard amidst the cacophony of other more established writers. It pleases me to say that this hasn't been the case. Through this blog, Twitter, and Instagram, I've met some amazing people, and there is no shortage of new and inspiring brands with stories to be told. So yes, Happy One Year Anniversary to the Dappled Waistcoat! 

Let me tell you, I've been delaying writing any kind of autumn-related post because I refuse to let go of summer. This is an annual problem, but I've lived in the Northeast my entire life... so I probably should have learned to cope with it by now. My signal that it's time to start writing about flannel and boots? The first morning that I have to put socks on to walk around my house. Strange as it may be, wearing socks while drinking coffee and reading the Times is what alerted me to the necessity of Fall blogging. 

It's hard to focus your attentions on what you really "need" every time a new season rolls around, and now after NY Fashion Week I like to hone in on just a few pieces that can serve as the home base for my Fall vibe. In this case, there are five of them. 
1. General Knot & Co.  Woodsman Plaid and Buffalo Check Corner-block Bandana, $45. The folks at GK really know their way around vintage fabric, and I really know my way around a bandana. Wear this with.... everything, it doesn't matter. Look at it! Are you kidding? If you don't feel like wearing a tie but you want to keep your neck looking fresh, this is the answer.
2. JCrew Excursion Quilted Vest in Camo, $138. I saw this while I quickly popped into JCrew to find a cardigan to wear to a wedding (I hate that I just said that) and my jaw fell to the floor. I don't think I'm alone in feeling that camo is the new neutral. Like denim, camo can be worn with just about anything and adds a bit of edge to more conservative fall colors and textures. When I go back to the store again this week to visit my dream vest, I'm sure they'll all be gone.
3. Greats Brand  Royale sneaker in Chocolate/White, $99. When I was in high school my mother would yell at me for wearing Vans and Converse in the fall/winter. She called them "summer shoes" because they were canvas. If I'd had these, she would have been stunned into silence. The Royales are Made in the USA with deerskin leather uppers and waxed cotton laces sitting atop a vachetta calfskin liner and imported Italian Margam rubber cup soles. It's a mouthful, but it's worth it. 
4. Penfield Idlewood daypack in Moon Tweed, $125. Made in USA from authentic Abraham Moon Tweed and leather trim. I like using the term "daypack" because it makes me feel less guilty about the fact that I'm not a student and I don't necessarily plan on just carrying this on my back. Like camo, this tweed will be one of the most versatile pieces in your wardrobe while still managing to really stand out. Rugged and functional, but classic and beautiful.
5. HELM Boots Marion in Olive, $395. Designed in Texas, crafted in Maine. The Marions are made of olive green Horween Chromexcel, which means they have a matte, slightly waxy feel and they'll break in to look like they were made just for you. The soles are leather with a stitched, injected rubber mini-tap lug and signature white midsole. Helm make boots that work hard for people that work hard. It just so happens that they're also absolutely amazing to look at.

Next week I'll be heading down to Texas to work for Dubarry at the American Eventing Championships, so I'll get one last taste of blazing heat before Fall really sets in. Keep up with me on Instagram and Twitter for updates on my first Texan adventure, and as always, I welcome any suggestions or photos of your favorite Fall pieces!

Tuesday, February 5, 2013

Spring Picks for Dandies, PLUS a San Francisco Special Feature!

I love boots and flannel as much as any red-blooded American, but winter has definitely lost its novelty for me. For weeks I've been suffering through Men's Fashion Week, demoralizing winter blowout sales full of rumpled disorganized sweaters and outerwear, and watching in agony while bloggers and storefronts alike prematurely let some bathing suits and linen shirts trickle out.

No worries, though! Spring is here (kind of)... and I'm extremely excited about all the fresh, dapper looks. American brands have really stepped up this season, and it's cause for a lot of celebration. Later in the post, I'm excited to share the launch of a new San Francisco-based women's shirt line, Tradlands, a welcome solution to the problem of finding quality, American-made buttondown shirts for gals. 

My inspiration for Spring this year is delicately executed menswear on ladies. It's a bit harder to do feminized menswear in the winter, because the weight of the fabrics and the necessity of layering for the cold tends to leave women looking shapeless. At least, that's what my problem has always been. When I saw this preview of General Knot & Co.'s Spring skinnies, though, I got a surge of inspiration. Slimmer proportions and good tailoring allows women to appropriate menswear in a way that's really empowering and creative. 


Also, for the record, the words "It will be mine... oh yes... it will be mine" left my lips as soon as I laid eyes on that little floral number. Knowing how limited the runs of General Knot's ties are, I checked every day until the new collection launched and ordered it. Only 12 of that floral tie were made. Not sure how many are left now, but please believe I got mine!



As you see above, I love it with my old reliable chambray shirt (J Crew, $70), but I look forward to pairing it with my lavender Ralph Lauren oxford shirt, and my RL Rugby sage and white stripe oxford. As soon as I get a Tradlands shirt, I'll obviously wear it with that too. 

Other ties I'd love to add to my collection:
Forage "Grey Floral" necktie,  $78

The Tie Bar "Knitted Kneats" silk knit in Mauve/Ivory, $15
The Tie Bar silk knit bow tie in Coral, $15 
the Hill-side "Modified Herringbone" in White, $90 at Hickorees
The grey floral tie from Forage is perfect. The neutral color is really versatile and allows it to be paired with almost anything, but the floral pattern is subtle and carries a strong Spring vibe. All of the neckwear from the Philadelphia-based haberdashery is made in limited runs from vintage and deadstock cotton fabrics. Ergo, the ties are a bit more pricy than the set $15 ones at The Tie Bar, but you're paying for a certain level of exclusivity and craftsmanship that's a bit more intimate. I love having a few really special pieces like my General Knot floral, but for the average person The Tie Bar is a great option because it allows you to stock up on stylish ties that are still made by hand. My message therefore, is achieving great style through budgetary balance.

As far as the Modified Herringbone tie from the Hill-side goes... all I have to say is, watch this video:

San Francisco presents: TRADLANDS

Today, February 5th, marks the launch of Tradlands: a collection of women's shirts designed and hand-sewn in SF. For their debut line, they've paired fabrics including raw denim and fine cotton plaid with neat details like lacquered brass snaps to create a feminine silhouette that is still conscious of the needs of a rugged, on-the-go kind of gal. These shirts would be equally at home with sleeves rolled up, digging in a garden as they would paired with some great jeans and accessories to go about town. Whether you're dressing them up or down, the shirts have a distinctly American sensibility that will never appear out of place. My personal favorite is the "Hayes Valley," made of a beautiful mid-weight chambray that would go PERFECTLY with my skinny tie from General Knot (cough, cough, nudge, nudge). As these shots from their lookbook show, though, the whole collection is well thought-out and carefully designed.
Tradlands "Hayes Valley" shirt, $147


Speaking of accessories to match up with your sparkly new Tradlands shirt... my friend Victoria of San Francisco's Our House Vintage and Design has some of her signature feather bow-ties in refreshing Spring colors. To make the bow ties, she layers hand-dyed feathers on leather backing, with velvet ribbon serving as the neck strap. She also uses remnant leather in an effort to recycle, and like most handmade goods, only a limited amount of each color are made. She does custom work too, so if there's a color you don't see in her Etsy shop don't hesitate to send her a message!


It's really cool to watch San Francisco develop into a creative mecca for handmade products and innovative design. I wish Sadie and Jeremy of Tradlands the best of luck with their launch, and I thank them on behalf of women everywhere for making lovely and hardworking shirts!

Brands and shops from this post: