the Tale behind the Ties at PINO Portland

Yet again, Twitter has proven an invaluable resource for me in finding exciting new brands and meeting interesting people. I was flattered when Crispin Argento of PINO Portland reached out to me to scope their new site, and naturally obliged. What I found was a crisp, straightforward design that let the product stand out on its own. PINO offers a rainbow of neckties and bowties, all made of raw silk. At first I thought the solid colors were a bit plain, being accustomed to seeing all the elaborate prints and patterns that many other neckwear makers are implementing. Upon further inspection though, I decided that the raw silk was perfectly understated and elegant. Regardless of how vivid or subdued the hue of the tie, the striking texture of raw silk draws the eye in without being too flashy. 

I asked Crispin why raw silk was his "weapon of choice," and he explained:

I chose the solid raw silk for a variety of reasons. As a designer, I am drawn to color and texture, two things mainstream menswear is slow to embrace, although things are changing, albeit slowly. When I began PINO, I started using heavy wools, upholstery fabrics, etc. to achieve my aesthetic. As the line grew, I didn’t want to work with jobbers (fabric resellers) any longer because I didn’t know the origin or provenance of the fabrics I was using and this type of sourcing did not align well with my quest for transparency, telling a story, and facilitating a closer relationship between consumers and their clothing.

I am working with a distributer that has a direct relationship with a family run mill in Bangalore, India, where the raw silk is harvested from Mulberry worms, and hand-spun, woven on treadle looms and dyed by hand.

Since raw silk is not common, especially in neckties, customers often are curious and mistake the raw silk for linen. When I tell them it’s hand-woven raw silk it spurs curiosity and provides a lead in for sharing with them the story of where it is from, how it is produced, why it feels and drapes a specific way, etc. They often like the part of why it is slightly gummy and smells sweet, I tell them it is because the fibers are not chemically processed like traditional silks. This helps to forge a relationship between the consumer and the garment.

I love Crispin's focus on storytelling, and it's definitely something that sets PINO apart. This passion for the creative process, from the mulberry worm to the final product, extends beyond the PINO brand onto the community of craftspeople and small businesses in Portland. PINO has already done several successful collaborations with local businesses, such as Sterling Coffee Roasters, Hand-Eye Supply, PICA, and even a local vegan bakery. They have a project in the works to create ties made from fabric sourced entirely from Oregon, and Crispin is a board member of Portland Made, a small business collective aiming to foster a greater connection between local consumers, designers, and manufacturers.  Portland is a "perfect storm" for creative people looking to start a business right now: cost of living is low, access to resources is high, and retail rent is significantly lower than places like New York. Ergo, small business boom.

I learned the story of the ties, and the story of the city, but what enchanted me the most was the initial inspiration behind creating PINO.

Early on I decided to start with neckwear because it is one of the only options a guy has to really stand out, especially in the era of “casual” is king. The purpose of having bright, fun, and textured colors for a necktie, bow tie or pocket kerchief is that they serve as the focal point of ones outfit and stand out. There is not a day that goes by that someone doesn’t comment on a PINO tie I am wearing, it invites discussion and allows me to tell my story and the story of the tie. Sometimes I want to be left alone, so I wear a boring tie or no tie at all. Ties, believe it or not, open doors and invite conversation nowadays.

Now that I have a PINO bowtie of my very own, I can attest to the immaculate craftsmanship and the beauty of the silk.

Luckily, I'm in the business of starting conversations.

SHOP PINO

Say Hello to Hank!

If you haven't already acquainted yourself with the Hank brand, I'm pleased to be the one making the introductions. A few Michigan natives started developing the brand this past fall, and in April they finally launched. I discovered Hank through Twitter, and soon recognized the same enthusiasm for good gear, and quality > quantity mindset that I have myself. Co-founder Adam Rice and I were able to connect over the phone a few weeks ago, and he gave me the scoop on the philosophy behind the Hank brand and what developments are to come.

Adam emphasized that in getting their Spring 2013 Collection together, consistent price points were a priority. The shame about the "made in USA" movement, he explained, is that customers have grown so accustomed to price gouging that they assume all fine quality American goods have to be expensive. When these customers see something more reasonably priced, they automatically assume that the quality isn't there, and that's just not correct. According to Adam, it's really not as expensive to manufacture here as people think. That being said, the Hank folks collaborated with some favorite American brands (Parrott Canvas Co., Pointer Brand, Ebbets Field, etc.) to create some exclusive items. Through their debut collection, Hank has established itself as a marketplace for thoughtfully curated American goods. The people of Hank are interested as much in the story behind a brand as they are in the goods themselves. This emphasis on people and stories turns their collection into a narrative that reads as much more than just a shop with some hats and shirts... it's a conversation about the American experience.

The move that Hank aims to make, however, is becoming a distinctive BRAND all on their own. While the Fall collection will include more collaborations with Pointer Brand (look for a few new Chore coats tweaked just for Hank), they're looking to put out their own shirting and chinos as well, and are enjoying going through the design process for the first time.

The folks at Hank have the right combination of ambition, integrity, and passion for fine men's goods. The Spring Collection includes a bunch of classic must-haves, and as the brand comes into their own I'm sure they'll come out with plenty of new favorites. As an un-femme lady, I have a few Hank picks of my own.

SHOP HANK

Spring Picks for Dandies, PLUS a San Francisco Special Feature!

I love boots and flannel as much as any red-blooded American, but winter has definitely lost its novelty for me. For weeks I've been suffering through Men's Fashion Week, demoralizing winter blowout sales full of rumpled disorganized sweaters and outerwear, and watching in agony while bloggers and storefronts alike prematurely let some bathing suits and linen shirts trickle out.

No worries, though! Spring is here (kind of)... and I'm extremely excited about all the fresh, dapper looks. American brands have really stepped up this season, and it's cause for a lot of celebration. Later in the post, I'm excited to share the launch of a new San Francisco-based women's shirt line, Tradlands, a welcome solution to the problem of finding quality, American-made buttondown shirts for gals. 

My inspiration for Spring this year is delicately executed menswear on ladies. It's a bit harder to do feminized menswear in the winter, because the weight of the fabrics and the necessity of layering for the cold tends to leave women looking shapeless. At least, that's what my problem has always been. When I saw this preview of General Knot & Co.'s Spring skinnies, though, I got a surge of inspiration. Slimmer proportions and good tailoring allows women to appropriate menswear in a way that's really empowering and creative. 

Also, for the record, the words "It will be mine... oh yes... it will be mine" left my lips as soon as I laid eyes on that little floral number. Knowing how limited the runs of General Knot's ties are, I checked every day until the new collection launched and ordered it. Only 12 of that floral tie were made. Not sure how many are left now, but please believe I got mine!

As you see above, I love it with my old reliable chambray shirt (J Crew, $70), but I look forward to pairing it with my lavender Ralph Lauren oxford shirt, and my RL Rugby sage and white stripe oxford. As soon as I get a Tradlands shirt, I'll obviously wear it with that too. 

Other ties I'd love to add to my collection:

Forage "Grey Floral" necktie,  $78

The Tie Bar "Knitted Kneats" silk knit in Mauve/Ivory, $15

The Tie Bar silk knit bow tie in Coral, $15 

the Hill-side "Modified Herringbone" in White, $90 at Hickorees

The grey floral tie from Forage is perfect. The neutral color is really versatile and allows it to be paired with almost anything, but the floral pattern is subtle and carries a strong Spring vibe. All of the neckwear from the Philadelphia-based haberdashery is made in limited runs from vintage and deadstock cotton fabrics. Ergo, the ties are a bit more pricy than the set $15 ones at The Tie Bar, but you're paying for a certain level of exclusivity and craftsmanship that's a bit more intimate. I love having a few really special pieces like my General Knot floral, but for the average person The Tie Bar is a great option because it allows you to stock up on stylish ties that are still made by hand. My message therefore, is achieving great style through budgetary balance.

As far as the Modified Herringbone tie from the Hill-side goes... all I have to say is, watch this video:

Old Virginia: The Hill-Side's "Modified Herringbone" Fabric from The Hill-Side on Vimeo.

San Francisco presents: TRADLANDS

Today, February 5th, marks the launch of Tradlands: a collection of women's shirts designed and hand-sewn in SF. For their debut line, they've paired fabrics including raw denim and fine cotton plaid with neat details like lacquered brass snaps to create a feminine silhouette that is still conscious of the needs of a rugged, on-the-go kind of gal. These shirts would be equally at home with sleeves rolled up, digging in a garden as they would paired with some great jeans and accessories to go about town. Whether you're dressing them up or down, the shirts have a distinctly American sensibility that will never appear out of place. My personal favorite is the "Hayes Valley," made of a beautiful mid-weight chambray that would go PERFECTLY with my skinny tie from General Knot (cough, cough, nudge, nudge). As these shots from their lookbook show, though, the whole collection is well thought-out and carefully designed.

Tradlands "Hayes Valley" shirt, $147

Speaking of accessories to match up with your sparkly new Tradlands shirt... my friend Victoria of San Francisco's Our House Vintage and Design has some of her signature feather bow-ties in refreshing Spring colors. To make the bow ties, she layers hand-dyed feathers on leather backing, with velvet ribbon serving as the neck strap. She also uses remnant leather in an effort to recycle, and like most handmade goods, only a limited amount of each color are made. She does custom work too, so if there's a color you don't see in her Etsy shop don't hesitate to send her a message!

It's really cool to watch San Francisco develop into a creative mecca for handmade products and innovative design. I wish Sadie and Jeremy of Tradlands the best of luck with their launch, and I thank them on behalf of women everywhere for making lovely and hardworking shirts!

Brands and shops from this post:

General Knot & Co.

the Tie-Bar

Forage

the Hill-side

Tradlands

Our House Vintage and Design

The POP UP FLEA Post

This was first year attending Pop Up Flea, and I finally got a chance to see what I'd been missing. Given my fairly recent transformation into a "blogger," I was forced to pony-up and be a bit more social than I usually am at these events. I will say that having my immaculately dressed former 60's Mad Man father around definitely helped, since the men representing the various brands seemed a lot more at ease explaining themselves to him than to me. It worked out quite well though, and I had a fantastic time.

My initial impression entering Drive-In Studios was that the event was as much about men trying to out-dress one another as it was about the brands and vendors promoting their wares. Warby Parker wasn't there, but it seemed like 8 out of every 10 men was wearing a pair of their frames, with a fresh haircut from some 50's barbershop and cuffed jeans. It reminded me of a less waspy, more hipster Hampton Classic Horse Show scene. I thought it was a little bit funny to be honest, I'm much more accustomed to females being competitive with one another about how they dress, and guys in the Long Island suburbs don't really worry too much about that stuff. Ergo, the summary of my first impression would be: amused, surprised, intrigued.

The impressive beast of a vehicle that the Gerber folks drove to NY from Portland was parked across from the Flea. If the van didn't give you an indication that these guys mean business, their assortment of hardcore purposeful knives will. Anyone equipped with a Gerber knife will have a phenomenal chance of survival in the impending zombie apocalypse (they do sell a zombie survival kit), or car crash, or camping, or basically any task you could think of which necessitates a sharp/insulated/blunt object. My dad was particularly enthralled with those beefy knives in the lower right hand side of the photo there. The end of the handle is made to break through glass as strong as the windshield of an aircraft and the handle is insulated so if you cut a live wire with it you won't get shocked. They're brilliant and clever, because by making specific knives for every imaginable purpose, they have in one stroke both created and filled a need that consumers were previously unaware of. I appreciate that kind of innovation.

The fellas at BillyKirk were hard at work, selling their beautifully crafted leatherwares and showing how they're made as well. I loved seeing this, because it really brought the idea of "conscious commerce" to life. I can't think of anything cooler than buying something from the person who made it, and knowing whose pocket your money is going into. They were the first thing I saw when I walked into Pop Up Flea, and it made me very happy. 

A well-selected assortment of goods at Harding & Wilson, including Otter Wax and Field Notes.

Setting the vibe moto-style at Deus Ex Machina.

The Levis exhibit was very nicely done, and the wolf jacket was hands down my favorite.

Filson, wow. I would rather invest in a Filson duffel than a designer handbag, truth be told.

Hardcore denim enthusiasts were not to be disappointed by the number of heritage and raw denim brands there. Tellason, Imogene+Willie, 3sixteen, and Levis were present, among others. I had a great talk with Andrew from 3sixteen about the demands in the denim market, and of the problematic nature of raw denim for women. I'd always assumed that the reason brands like Tellason didn't cater to women was due to the fitting issues that go along with heavyweight raw denim on the female form. Andrew confirmed this, but showed me some jeans that 3sixteen has designed for women, in a lighter 12oz selvedge denim that they've given a four-way stretch to remedy the fitting problem. The women's line was created exclusively for the retail space Self Edge on Orchard St. in the Lower East Side, and apparently they've done quite well with it. I didn't try a pair on so I honestly can't say if the jeans fit great or not, but I'm very happy that at least, someone is trying. A friend of mine who works in the industry later refuted the possibility that a decent pair of raw denim could be made for women because of the thigh/butt fitting nightmare area, and recommended that I instead try a pair of James Jeans "Twiggy" or Rag+Bones to fit my athletic/tiny butt physique. It seems to be a pretty hotly debated topic, so stay tuned on more about that at some other time.

Another highlight of my time there was finally meeting the charming folks behind General Knot & Co. Andrew Payne and his wife are down-to-earth, passionate about what they do, and completely approachable. The formula is pretty simple: curate unique vintage fabrics, make ties by hand in New England. I got to see the beautiful Donegal Lambswool Hopsacking fabric from my Gift Guide post in both tie and bow-tie form. The fact that these fabrics are vintage makes them a finite resource, much like fossil fuels but a lot more handsome. Only a limited number of ties in each fabric can be produced, making them as rare and valuable as they are an essential wardrobe item. Dressing is an art. By taking the every-day routine of putting on a suit and making it an aesthetic process, you can make your life more beautiful and enjoyable. Basically, just think of yourself as a male, dandy geisha. 

The Terrapin Stationers setup had a full spread of their greeting cards, calling cards, holiday cards, stationery, etc., with enough off-color taste to put a huge smile on my face. Ted Harrington and his wife Jodi were extremely gracious and very cool. I was a little star-struck, to be honest, because I've been admiring Terrapin's stuff for a long time and have a ton of respect for the engraving craft. I scored a Christmas card with Santa flipping the bird, which I've framed because nobody I know is even cool enough to receive it, and some cards with "Fuck yeah" in gold script. Stationery has a pretty huge place in my heart. When I was 8 years old, my 23 year old sister Krista was diagnosed with colon cancer. I lived in New York, she lived in Delaware. For the 5 years that she battled the disease before it finally took her, she and I would send letters back and forth on all different kinds of fun stationery. We talked on the phone too, obviously, but there was something special about getting a hand-written letter that made the distance a little less painful. I still have all of the letters she sent me. Since that time, I've insisted on making rather than buying cards for people, and writing notes by hand whenever I can. As an English M.A. I learned to have a certain respect for the written word... I've seen handwritten notes and manuscripts for Joyce's Ulysses and Stoker's Dracula at the Rosenbach Museum in Philadelphia that left me with goosebumps. Anyway... Terrapin's products are works of art that you can interact with and personalize in a meaningful way. They are tangible pieces of personal history that you can carry with you forever... something we're losing in the iPhone age.

I didn't realize this post would end up so lengthy, but I had a very inspiring time at my first real "field mission" as a blogger. I love this industry, and being around so many other people who share my lifestyle philosophy was a breath of fresh air.

Fall Picks for Fellas

My favorite time of year for menswear, no question, is fall. I'd take flannel and boots over seersucker and deck shoes any day. Regardless of whether or not there's a man in my life, once the leaves start turning I find myself exploring the men's section of my favorite stores, feeling up the rich tweeds and corduroys and flannels. What follows is a sampling of apparel and accessories that strive towards a woodsy sort of masculinity mixed with an urban sensibility. Please also note that when I label such things as "men's" and "menswear," I'm not implying that these items are exclusively for guys. I've more than once purchased shirts and outerwear from the "men's" department. Regardless of how you gender-identify, you'll appreciate these goods that make the fading away of summer a little less painful. 

Fjallraven Byron Hat, $40

Levi's for Filson Trucker Jacket, $228

Penfield Wayland Navy, $95

Steven Alan Button Shoulder Crewneck Sweater, $265

Woolrich Rescue Jacket, $299

Far too often I see men in the fall wearing gigantic oversized sweatshirts with jeans or sweatpants and sneakers. This makes me cringe, it's such a waste. If summer is the women's season to maximize their wardrobe potential with dresses and shorts and flaunt their figures, fall is when men should rule. Find an excuse to grow a little bit of a beard, throw together some plaids and prints and whatever else that don't quite match. Wear a hat that doesn't have a professional sports team logo on it and preferably one that wasn't chosen specifically because it's the same color as your shoes. The beauty of fall is that you can buy one nice expensive coat or jacket (see above) and wear it over all of your less expensive basics. This is rookie stuff, folks. Hell, get an old leather jacket from a thrift store and buy an eye catching wool scarf from Pendleton or Woolrich to make you look like you're a dude who knows things and thinks about stuff. There's just really no excuse to look sloppy once the weather gets a bit colder. I will now descend from my soap box.

Fjallraven

Filson

Penfield

Steven Alan

Woolrich

Feel free to also follow the Dappled Waistcoat on Twitter, where I will not infrequently rant about sloppily dressed people and lament the lack of mountains in my life! @dappldwaistcoat