Brooklyn Shop Stop

I spent some time exploring Williamsburg last Friday, and my experiences in the five shops and two eateries that I visited really got me thinking about something I'll call "shop etiquette." I won't name any names here, for the sake of being diplomatic, but my advice to all small shop owners is this: you need to be friendly and welcoming to everyone and anyone who comes into your store. Do I have a lot of money to spend? Hell no. Is there a really good chance I'm only going into your store to stealthily take photos and talk about it on my blog? Absolutely. In three of the shops I went into, my companion and I were greeted immediately in a friendly way. In one shop, neither of the TWO PEOPLE working so much as looked up when we came in. We browsed for at least 15 minutes and at no point did anyone bother to acknowledge us. Am I going to spend $40 on a t-shirt in your kitschy, overpriced shop, when you can't even greet me? Nope. In shop number 5, we were greeted but it was a little forced, and there was no music playing in the shop at all, so the awkward silence made me want to leave.

I think part of the problem with shops in Williamsburg in particular is that people get a little too arrogant. The fact that your target demographic (privileged young professionals with disposable income and no ingrained sense of financial responsibility) are easily accessible and will spend money on whatever they feel they're supposed to in order to maintain their lifestyle does not excuse you from practicing good business. Good SMALL business, to be exact. Because the whole reason why I'll go into a little shop and spend at least 25% more on something I could easily get for less at a big box store is the warm fuzzy feeling I get when I know I'm helping an actual person keep their business going. It feels good to know where your money is going, know where/how the products are made, and know that if you have a problem, the person who sold them to you is likely to be the person to resolve it. What is the point of spending more, then, when I go into a small shop that occupies maybe a 20x20' space and the person doesn't even attempt to engage with me on a person-to-person level? 

To drive my point home, I'd like to give out the award for BEST BROOKLYN CUSTOMER SERVICE to the Cotton Candy Machine, a really neat art boutique on South 1st. As soon as we walked in, the guy working the shop greeted us and introduced himself as Lyejm. We chatted about the shop, about what exhibitions they had coming up, small talk, etc. He was incredibly genuine and I felt right at home poking around the awesome prints, toys, and books they had. While we were thumbing through the books he even came around and showed us his personal favorite. These are little tiny acts, gestures of humanity if you will, but they make a world of difference. If he had sat numbly behind the cashwrap looking through his Facebook and ignoring us, I would have lost interest and walked out. Instead, I plan on going back and investing in a couple of lithographs to frame, and I definitely want to go to the "A Little Knotty and Dead Inventors" exhibit they have coming up in March. 

The Cotton Candy Machine!

I was VERY excited to see the Hickorees brick and mortar for the first time. The second floor space is beautiful, with huge windows and lots of light. They have lots of product there but still manage to maintain a feeling of openness. I bought an awesome bar of soap (via my previous sensitive skin post), as part of my crusade to see how many different soaps I can try before my skin just explodes into a giant rash and then falls from my bones. Happily, the Mountain Ocean "Skin Trip" Coconut bar soap did not irritate my skin. It smells unbelievable, lathers up really nice, and doesn't dry my skin out at all. I was going to use it sparingly, but it's actually so intoxicating that I've used it every day. It's made of all natural stuff and not tested on animals! 

Wondrously merchandized goods.

Massive Hill-side assortment!

Parrott Canvas Company tote, $85

The leaf camo tote from Parrott Canvas Company is the main thing I wish I could have gotten. It's Made in USA from Japanese cotton duck and has pockets for everything you could ever carry. I did get a sweet carpenter pencil with my soap purchase though. Hickorees knows how to do it right. They definitely get my stamp of approval.

We stopped by Joinery to see what they were all about. The store is beautiful all around, and it's obvious that a lot of thought went into every aspect of their vibe/layout, which I appreciated. The main thing that caught my eye was their jewelry -- a lot of natural/uncut stones with a big vintage/handmade kind of feel.

My last stop was at one of my favorite places in the neighborhood, the Brooklyn Art Library. They feed my vintage papergoods/notebook/paper addiction in the worst way. I end up buying things for myself and buying gifts for other people because somehow it's impossible not to. It's a very inviting place and the art librarians are always happy to recommend cool sketchbooks to look at. 

Sketchbooks from all over the world!

I treated myself to this little weekly planner that stands up and has a manila folder attached. Multifunctioning for my all-encompassing obsessive compulsive tendencies.

Apart from shopping, I had breakfast for lunch at the Rabbithole. It's truly an amazing little restaurant. The second you step inside it's like entering another world... a cross between Miss Havisham's house and an abandoned Victorian country home. They manage to make dusty and old look chic. 

I'll be doing a lot more exploring in the coming months, and now that a few relatively unpleasant customer service experiences have caught my attention, I'm anxious to see how associates in other Brooklyn shops behave. If you don't have customers, you don't stay in business. Recognize and appreciate the people who are patronizing your store!

Featured:

The Cotton Candy Machine

Hickorees

Joinery NYC

The Brooklyn Art Library

Rabbithole

Spring Picks for Dandies, PLUS a San Francisco Special Feature!

I love boots and flannel as much as any red-blooded American, but winter has definitely lost its novelty for me. For weeks I've been suffering through Men's Fashion Week, demoralizing winter blowout sales full of rumpled disorganized sweaters and outerwear, and watching in agony while bloggers and storefronts alike prematurely let some bathing suits and linen shirts trickle out.

No worries, though! Spring is here (kind of)... and I'm extremely excited about all the fresh, dapper looks. American brands have really stepped up this season, and it's cause for a lot of celebration. Later in the post, I'm excited to share the launch of a new San Francisco-based women's shirt line, Tradlands, a welcome solution to the problem of finding quality, American-made buttondown shirts for gals. 

My inspiration for Spring this year is delicately executed menswear on ladies. It's a bit harder to do feminized menswear in the winter, because the weight of the fabrics and the necessity of layering for the cold tends to leave women looking shapeless. At least, that's what my problem has always been. When I saw this preview of General Knot & Co.'s Spring skinnies, though, I got a surge of inspiration. Slimmer proportions and good tailoring allows women to appropriate menswear in a way that's really empowering and creative. 

Also, for the record, the words "It will be mine... oh yes... it will be mine" left my lips as soon as I laid eyes on that little floral number. Knowing how limited the runs of General Knot's ties are, I checked every day until the new collection launched and ordered it. Only 12 of that floral tie were made. Not sure how many are left now, but please believe I got mine!

As you see above, I love it with my old reliable chambray shirt (J Crew, $70), but I look forward to pairing it with my lavender Ralph Lauren oxford shirt, and my RL Rugby sage and white stripe oxford. As soon as I get a Tradlands shirt, I'll obviously wear it with that too. 

Other ties I'd love to add to my collection:

Forage "Grey Floral" necktie,  $78

The Tie Bar "Knitted Kneats" silk knit in Mauve/Ivory, $15

The Tie Bar silk knit bow tie in Coral, $15 

the Hill-side "Modified Herringbone" in White, $90 at Hickorees

The grey floral tie from Forage is perfect. The neutral color is really versatile and allows it to be paired with almost anything, but the floral pattern is subtle and carries a strong Spring vibe. All of the neckwear from the Philadelphia-based haberdashery is made in limited runs from vintage and deadstock cotton fabrics. Ergo, the ties are a bit more pricy than the set $15 ones at The Tie Bar, but you're paying for a certain level of exclusivity and craftsmanship that's a bit more intimate. I love having a few really special pieces like my General Knot floral, but for the average person The Tie Bar is a great option because it allows you to stock up on stylish ties that are still made by hand. My message therefore, is achieving great style through budgetary balance.

As far as the Modified Herringbone tie from the Hill-side goes... all I have to say is, watch this video:

Old Virginia: The Hill-Side's "Modified Herringbone" Fabric from The Hill-Side on Vimeo.

San Francisco presents: TRADLANDS

Today, February 5th, marks the launch of Tradlands: a collection of women's shirts designed and hand-sewn in SF. For their debut line, they've paired fabrics including raw denim and fine cotton plaid with neat details like lacquered brass snaps to create a feminine silhouette that is still conscious of the needs of a rugged, on-the-go kind of gal. These shirts would be equally at home with sleeves rolled up, digging in a garden as they would paired with some great jeans and accessories to go about town. Whether you're dressing them up or down, the shirts have a distinctly American sensibility that will never appear out of place. My personal favorite is the "Hayes Valley," made of a beautiful mid-weight chambray that would go PERFECTLY with my skinny tie from General Knot (cough, cough, nudge, nudge). As these shots from their lookbook show, though, the whole collection is well thought-out and carefully designed.

Tradlands "Hayes Valley" shirt, $147

Speaking of accessories to match up with your sparkly new Tradlands shirt... my friend Victoria of San Francisco's Our House Vintage and Design has some of her signature feather bow-ties in refreshing Spring colors. To make the bow ties, she layers hand-dyed feathers on leather backing, with velvet ribbon serving as the neck strap. She also uses remnant leather in an effort to recycle, and like most handmade goods, only a limited amount of each color are made. She does custom work too, so if there's a color you don't see in her Etsy shop don't hesitate to send her a message!

It's really cool to watch San Francisco develop into a creative mecca for handmade products and innovative design. I wish Sadie and Jeremy of Tradlands the best of luck with their launch, and I thank them on behalf of women everywhere for making lovely and hardworking shirts!

Brands and shops from this post:

General Knot & Co.

the Tie-Bar

Forage

the Hill-side

Tradlands

Our House Vintage and Design

Spring Shades: SHURON Edition

Before I begin, I'm obliged to tell you that proper sunglasses are a YEAR ROUND necessity, not just for April-August. However, Spring does bring sunny days and people tend to spend more time outside, so what better time to upgrade your look? I recently got a pair of prescription Ray Ban "New Clubmaster" sunglasses (see Figure A). Shortly after picking them up, I discovered that the Clubmasters are made in China. If I had realized before, I honestly would have opted for something else. The vast majority of Ray Bans are still made in Italy, but I guess that due to the complexity of producing frames that have both metal and plastic components, it is more cost-effective to manufacture certain styles in China.

Figure A

After putting Ray Ban on blast via Twitter (they didn't care), a follower recommended Shuron to me. Since 1865, Shuron Ltd have been making eyewear in Greenville, South Carolina. Their frames are decidedly retro, because the designs literally have not changed since the time when "retro" was "modern." Honestly, some are so retro that they have not yet been recycled into what's considered hip... but I'm sure they will sooner or later. What's amazing about Shuron, and an indictment of the major eyewear corporations, is that these Made in USA frames are incredibly affordable. A pair of polarized sunglasses from Shuron runs roughly $160-185, depending on the style.

As much as I love and respect Warby Parker and Classic Specs, and I'm sure the materials they use are excellent, their frames are still manufactured in China. That's why they're less than a hundred bucks, folks. Let's use our heads. You have to take the bad with the good, for sure. WP donates glasses to people in need, and CP donates a percentage of their profits to charity. Awesome. However, in lieu of donating to charity, why not find a way to produce your glasses in the US and create actual jobs for people in this country? Personally, I'd rather pay 50 bucks more for something that's made here. That's where Shuron comes in.

Shuron "Sidewinder" in Demi Amber/Gray

Shuron "Freeway" in Black Fade w/ Green/Gray

Shuron "Freeway" in Demi Gray/Gray

Shuron "Ronsir Revelation" in Black Briar

The Freeway and the Sidewinder are both Wayfarer-type styles. The major differences between the two  would be the thicker arms and double rivet feature on the Sidewinder vs the metal bar detail on the Freeway. The Ronsir is a Clubmaster style, which they offer in a few different variations. I like the Revelation model because the lens size is a bit smaller, akin to my "New Clubmaster." 

The photos speak for themselves. There's no question that Shuron's designs can compete with the trendiest companies out there, but their humble origins have rendered them the best kept secret among retro eyewear aficionados. 

The easiest way to explore their selection is right at the source, www.shuron.com. 

Sensitive Winter Hands: Crack No More!

"Cold hands, warm heart." That's what my Grandmother used to tell me when I balked at her icy cold  hands, and later complained of my own. I sadly cannot confirm that my heart is exceptionally warm, but my hands are definitely always freezing. I've also been blessed (read: plagued) with extremely sensitive skin. Anything with artificial colors or fragrances makes me break out. I can tell immediately if my clothes have been accidentally washed with scented detergent because the itchiness makes it unbearable. All the soaps I use are fragrance free, and any perfume I use is sprayed predominantly on my hair/clothing to prevent unwanted blotchiness. Thanks to my dermatological afflictions, I'm something of a professional when it comes to hypoallergenic skincare products. Winter has been especially hard on my hands and face recently, so I felt inspired to make up a post of some skincare goodies, ALL made in USA.

Crabtree&Evelyn La Source Hand Therapy cream ($30) and treatment ($26)

Hands down, the Crabtree & Evelyn La Source Hand Therapy collection is the most effective dry/chapped hands treatment I've ever tried. I came upon it as a happy accident one day, when I was working down in Suburban Square in Ardmore, PA. It was a slow, dreary winter day, I was bored, so I walked over to the Crabtree store next door to see if they had any hand stuff I could sample to get me through the day. The woman told me she had "just the thing" and brought me over to the little sink setup in the middle of the store. She ran some warm water and had me rub a marble-sized amount of the Hand Therapy treatment on my dry hands. It felt rough, like an exfoliant, which was a bit counter-intuitive since my hands were so chapped they were bleeding. The roughness really just polishes off the dry bits of skin though, and when I rinsed it off under the running water my hands felt as soft as a baby's. I dried my hands (patting, not rubbing them dry) and then applied a squirt of the Hand Therapy cream to seal in the goodness. Going into the store that day was the best whim I ever had, because it's been over a year and I'm still using the stuff. When that Crabtree location closed I was very upset, but I without a doubt bought a stockpile of La Source at half price. The Hand Therapy collection comes in a few different scents, but I like La Source the best because the blend of sea salt, algae, shea butter, and lavender oil smells like the beach. Also, despite the hoity-toity Frenchness of the name, it is in fact made in the USA. Crabtree can be ordered directly on their website, but it's also popularly carried at many small businesses and boutiques so I would check that out first and shop small!

Field Aesthetic Natural Soap, $10

When I placed my holiday order from the lovely Vermonters at Field Aesthetic, they sent along a bar of their Essential Herb soap for me to try. I'm not going to lie, I was a little scared at first, because it smelled really amazing and I assumed it had all sorts of oils and perfumes in it that would send my skin into a raging tailspin. My fears were abated when I read the ingredients and saw that it contains no artificial colors, fragrances, or preservatives. It smells very herby from all the essential oils, and the little sprigs of Rosemary and such in the bar gave it a nice exfoliating vibe. I'm still using this soap in the shower, and I have suffered no allergic reactions from it. I'm no dermatologist but I would give this the "HYPOALLERGENIC" stamp of approval if I could. It makes your skin feel ridiculously clean. A+

Long Island Livestock Co. Adirondack Scented Llama Loofa ($13) and Shepherdess Salve ($14)

I discovered the Long Island Livestock Co. at the Hampton Classic this summer. It was their first year at the show, and they came with soaps, salves, balms, yarn, blankets, and other woolen goodies, all the products of their Llamas and Alpacas. They also brought a few of their animals to the show so people could meet them, and gave shearing demonstrations as well. For such a small, family run business, I was impressed by the fact that they had an iPad in the booth for people to use to sign up for their mailing list. They really presented the full package of a small, self-sustaining business: every product they make comes from the Llamas and Alpacas, which they raise themselves. The Lanolin oil from the wool is made into soap by another local person. Some of the blankets they had were Pendleton, because they entered into a co-op with a bunch of other small wool companies to send in wool and have Pendleton make blankets for them. I love that Pendleton is conscious enough of their status as an iconic Made in America brand that they're willing to enter into partnerships to help smaller companies in the wool industry. I am happy to support LI Livestock Co. as a business that is very local to me, and I look forward to watching them grow in the community.

Anyway, they make these "Llama Loofas" by taking a natural handmade soap and hand-felting the exfoliating llama or alpaca fiber around it. The essential oils in the soap give it fragrance, and the fibers themselves are hypoallergenic and healthy because they prevent the buildup of soap residue. I haven't personally tried these yet, but they look really cool and smell awesome. The Shepherdess Salve is a very basic Lanolin oil formula, and can be used on pretty much any part of your skin that's dry: hands, feet, lips, cuticles, diaper rash, whatever. As long as you don't eat it you can put it wherever you want. It does also come in a Honey Almond variety for those with no concerns over nut allergies.

PGS Face Bomb, $21

Portland General Store never ceases to impress me by their inventive array of products. While I'd really love if they made more products that cater to women, I would say that their skincare collection is safely unisex (we all have skin, right?). The rhassoul mud (a type of clay) base is blended with essential oils, floral waters, and exfoliating ground walnut shells to create what I'm sure is an exhilarating and sensory satisfying cleansing experience. Also... it's so natural that it has an expiration date. And vegan! If I ever get to try this I will surely report how it is.

Using great skincare products is definitely your first line of defense against winter dryness. All of that scrubbing and moisturizing will be for naught, however, if you don't protect your skin once you go outside. Along with my aversion to bulky winter coats, I hate wearing gloves because they make me feel sloppy and restricted. I've had to just man-up and get over it though, because I've definitely suffered the consequences this winter. A cheeky Christmas gift I received this year were RL Rugby's Arm Warmers (below) which are basically leg warmers for your arms. They have the appeal of fingerless gloves except they go all the way up past your elbows. I haven't quite figured out what to wear them with though, so usually I just walk around the house with them on. Rugby is going out of business completely in less than a month, so if you like them I'd go online and scoop them up while you still can.

Rugby Arm Warmers

As always, I welcome suggestions and recommendations. I enjoy using myself as a test dummy for skin products, since my skin's temperamental nature and often arbitrary allergic reactions to things keep my life very interesting.

Stay warm and moisturize!

Crabtree & Evelyn

Field Aesthetic

Long Island Livestock Co.

Portland General Store

Rugby

Housekeeping Update!

We've updated things a bit, so our new URL is www.dappledwaistcoat.com. You can still use the old .blogspot address, but you will be redirected to the new one.

Thank you everyone, for your continued support! Some fresh posts are in the works for the new year, so check back often or follow us on Facebook and Twitter to get the quickest updates.

Happy New Year!

 - Anne

Oh, hey!

Dappled Facebook

Dappled Twitter

The POP UP FLEA Post

This was first year attending Pop Up Flea, and I finally got a chance to see what I'd been missing. Given my fairly recent transformation into a "blogger," I was forced to pony-up and be a bit more social than I usually am at these events. I will say that having my immaculately dressed former 60's Mad Man father around definitely helped, since the men representing the various brands seemed a lot more at ease explaining themselves to him than to me. It worked out quite well though, and I had a fantastic time.

My initial impression entering Drive-In Studios was that the event was as much about men trying to out-dress one another as it was about the brands and vendors promoting their wares. Warby Parker wasn't there, but it seemed like 8 out of every 10 men was wearing a pair of their frames, with a fresh haircut from some 50's barbershop and cuffed jeans. It reminded me of a less waspy, more hipster Hampton Classic Horse Show scene. I thought it was a little bit funny to be honest, I'm much more accustomed to females being competitive with one another about how they dress, and guys in the Long Island suburbs don't really worry too much about that stuff. Ergo, the summary of my first impression would be: amused, surprised, intrigued.

The impressive beast of a vehicle that the Gerber folks drove to NY from Portland was parked across from the Flea. If the van didn't give you an indication that these guys mean business, their assortment of hardcore purposeful knives will. Anyone equipped with a Gerber knife will have a phenomenal chance of survival in the impending zombie apocalypse (they do sell a zombie survival kit), or car crash, or camping, or basically any task you could think of which necessitates a sharp/insulated/blunt object. My dad was particularly enthralled with those beefy knives in the lower right hand side of the photo there. The end of the handle is made to break through glass as strong as the windshield of an aircraft and the handle is insulated so if you cut a live wire with it you won't get shocked. They're brilliant and clever, because by making specific knives for every imaginable purpose, they have in one stroke both created and filled a need that consumers were previously unaware of. I appreciate that kind of innovation.

The fellas at BillyKirk were hard at work, selling their beautifully crafted leatherwares and showing how they're made as well. I loved seeing this, because it really brought the idea of "conscious commerce" to life. I can't think of anything cooler than buying something from the person who made it, and knowing whose pocket your money is going into. They were the first thing I saw when I walked into Pop Up Flea, and it made me very happy. 

A well-selected assortment of goods at Harding & Wilson, including Otter Wax and Field Notes.

Setting the vibe moto-style at Deus Ex Machina.

The Levis exhibit was very nicely done, and the wolf jacket was hands down my favorite.

Filson, wow. I would rather invest in a Filson duffel than a designer handbag, truth be told.

Hardcore denim enthusiasts were not to be disappointed by the number of heritage and raw denim brands there. Tellason, Imogene+Willie, 3sixteen, and Levis were present, among others. I had a great talk with Andrew from 3sixteen about the demands in the denim market, and of the problematic nature of raw denim for women. I'd always assumed that the reason brands like Tellason didn't cater to women was due to the fitting issues that go along with heavyweight raw denim on the female form. Andrew confirmed this, but showed me some jeans that 3sixteen has designed for women, in a lighter 12oz selvedge denim that they've given a four-way stretch to remedy the fitting problem. The women's line was created exclusively for the retail space Self Edge on Orchard St. in the Lower East Side, and apparently they've done quite well with it. I didn't try a pair on so I honestly can't say if the jeans fit great or not, but I'm very happy that at least, someone is trying. A friend of mine who works in the industry later refuted the possibility that a decent pair of raw denim could be made for women because of the thigh/butt fitting nightmare area, and recommended that I instead try a pair of James Jeans "Twiggy" or Rag+Bones to fit my athletic/tiny butt physique. It seems to be a pretty hotly debated topic, so stay tuned on more about that at some other time.

Another highlight of my time there was finally meeting the charming folks behind General Knot & Co. Andrew Payne and his wife are down-to-earth, passionate about what they do, and completely approachable. The formula is pretty simple: curate unique vintage fabrics, make ties by hand in New England. I got to see the beautiful Donegal Lambswool Hopsacking fabric from my Gift Guide post in both tie and bow-tie form. The fact that these fabrics are vintage makes them a finite resource, much like fossil fuels but a lot more handsome. Only a limited number of ties in each fabric can be produced, making them as rare and valuable as they are an essential wardrobe item. Dressing is an art. By taking the every-day routine of putting on a suit and making it an aesthetic process, you can make your life more beautiful and enjoyable. Basically, just think of yourself as a male, dandy geisha. 

The Terrapin Stationers setup had a full spread of their greeting cards, calling cards, holiday cards, stationery, etc., with enough off-color taste to put a huge smile on my face. Ted Harrington and his wife Jodi were extremely gracious and very cool. I was a little star-struck, to be honest, because I've been admiring Terrapin's stuff for a long time and have a ton of respect for the engraving craft. I scored a Christmas card with Santa flipping the bird, which I've framed because nobody I know is even cool enough to receive it, and some cards with "Fuck yeah" in gold script. Stationery has a pretty huge place in my heart. When I was 8 years old, my 23 year old sister Krista was diagnosed with colon cancer. I lived in New York, she lived in Delaware. For the 5 years that she battled the disease before it finally took her, she and I would send letters back and forth on all different kinds of fun stationery. We talked on the phone too, obviously, but there was something special about getting a hand-written letter that made the distance a little less painful. I still have all of the letters she sent me. Since that time, I've insisted on making rather than buying cards for people, and writing notes by hand whenever I can. As an English M.A. I learned to have a certain respect for the written word... I've seen handwritten notes and manuscripts for Joyce's Ulysses and Stoker's Dracula at the Rosenbach Museum in Philadelphia that left me with goosebumps. Anyway... Terrapin's products are works of art that you can interact with and personalize in a meaningful way. They are tangible pieces of personal history that you can carry with you forever... something we're losing in the iPhone age.

I didn't realize this post would end up so lengthy, but I had a very inspiring time at my first real "field mission" as a blogger. I love this industry, and being around so many other people who share my lifestyle philosophy was a breath of fresh air.