Austin, Texas! One of the Top Ten Dopest Cities in the USA.

I'm not sure what the other 9 "Dopest Cities in the USA" are, I just know that Austin is definitely on that list. I was lucky enough to spend a long, gorgeous sunny day in Austin a couple of weeks ago, and I feel the need to share the awesomeness with everyone. I found the city to be completely distinct from any other one I've seen in the US, and I was able to connect with it far more than I have with any other place in Texas.

Kyle! Wearing the Dubarry Keating jacket and Kerry boots. Gear fit for exploring.

We started the day with a little pre-breakfast hike up to Covert Park at Mount Bonnell. There were a lot of stairs, but the view was well worth it. An appropriately large and Tex-Mexified breakfast ensued, after which I found necessary caffeination in the form of a damn good double cappuccino at Strange Brew. The barista was a total sweetheart and gave tips on cool places to go on our one free day in Austin.

I I headed around the SoCo neighborhood with Kyle (the coolest dude I know) and marveled at the seemingly endless number of awesome, independently owned stores. Sad but true... I generally feel a lot more comfortable walking around men's shops with an actual guy, otherwise the staff doesn't seem to know what to make of me. But, that's fine. 

We went into Stag first, after Weiss Watch Co. gave me the heads up about them via Twitter (thanks for that!). They have a really impressive selection of menswear brands, from RRL to Imogene+Willie, Baldwin Denim, Gitman Bros., Filson, Penfield, etc... and New York's own Terrapin Stationers are there as well! Plus, that bright Texas sun made some new shades a necessity, and they had some Randolph Engineering aviators that fit the bill perfectly. 

Terrapin Stationers at Stag Austin!

Randolph Engineering aviators -- necessary purchase.

We stopped by Archive Vintage and I was pleased to see HELM Boots there, in the flesh, for the first time! They're as well crafted and handsome as I thought they would be. The shop also had a ton of neat vintage stuff, mixed in with new finds from rare brands.

South Congress Books caught my eye... I'm a sucker for used/vintage bookstores and this place DID NOT disappoint. If I lived in Austin I'd be in there on a weekly basis for sure. Though the shelf full of first-edition Faulkner's caught my eye... I picked up a copy of Sartre that I was missing. If you are nerdy, GO SUPPORT THIS BOOK STORE. 

Uncommon Objects was another gem that we stumbled upon. It's the sort of antique shop that you can get lost in for hours. Literally endless amounts of stuff to look through, from classic to bizarre, with plenty of Americana and distinctly Texan artifacts. They had a separate section of jewelry made out of things like antique compasses, pocket knives, skeleton keys, etc. which was completely tempting and I can't believe I made it out of there without buying something.

It would have been remiss of me not to try out some cowboy boots while I was in Texas... so we went to a place that was literally floor to ceiling, aisles and aisles of boots: Allens Boots. I've apparently got a rare size for cowboy boots (after a fitting with Rod Patrick back in October), but I found a pair of black Lucchese that felt amazing. I didn't take the plunge, but, I'm still thinking about them.

For refreshment we found Jo's Coffee, where there was plenty of open air seating and a walk-up window... and lots of cute dogs. 

Our next shop stop was Service Menswear, a short drive away, tucked into a pretty swanky little shopping center. The store was small but packed to the brim with well chosen goods. Kyle fell in love with an arrow print buttondown from Altru Apparel. 

shirt by Altru Apparel.

Another Austin MUST is proper tacos. Fortunately for us, Kyle had a friend there who recommended Torchy's Tacos, where we ate outside in the lovely sunshine and I shamelessly licked hot sauce off my fingers. They were indeed, Damn Good Tacos.

LAST BUT NOT LEAST we rushed over to the Hope Outdoor Gallery graffiti park, which appears to be the ruins of an industrial sort of building that was commandeered by graffiti artists until everyone gave up and turned it into a giant dynamic art exhibit. The view of the Austin skyline is amazing from there as well. It was a perfect and fitting end to a successful day of exploration.

Dubarry Wicklow boots and Ardmore bag, Houndworthy Stag Antler whistle

//EDIT// Oh but WAIT. There was more. Austin's got a killer music scene... that's no secret... and while we were listening to NPR on the drive into town we heard this band Sons of Fathers, who happened to be playing at the Mohawk that night. Carpe diem, baby, so we went down there and saw some great live music, witnessed some legitimate stomping of cowboy boots, and also walked by a steampunk bar that I regret not going into afterwards.

Sons of Fathers tearin' it up at the Mohawk!

VISIT AUSTIN.
>> Stag
>> Service Menswear
>> Archive Vintage
>> Uncommon Objects
>> Allens Boots
>> South Congress Books

Hello, Killer Little Antler Keyring!

Quick update! In my Holiday Gift Guide I shared an eye-catching, hand painted antler keyring available at Houndworthy through the Toronto based brand North. Lucky girl that I am, I've just received my own! This one is a single-tip version (as opposed to the double tip one I show in the gift guide) so I figured you'd all like to have a look!

(Also shown: my brass telescope keyring, $12 at TROVE GENERAL.)

Check out North on their Etsy shop or order keyrings through Houndworthy! They're all very unique, and perfect for girls, guys, whatever sort of human you are. 

Bringing Back the Heirloom Ideal: pucciManuli

If the "shop small" movement is going to gain real traction and bring change to the way we think as consumers, we must begin by instilling in the next generation an appreciation for unique, well-made goods. I have nephews, and I've observed that they watch TV and "WANT" every toy in every commercial. Though I'm sure I wasn't much different when I was a little kid, it's a bit scary to see it as an adult and know that these ads and commercials are grooming a new generation of rapid consumers. The toy industry generates billions of dollars a year, selling generic products cheaply made in massive quantities. How many of these toys will stand the test of time? How many will be passed down to future generations?

This is where people like pucciManuli's Carrie Kohs step in. Fifteen years spent working in corporate advertising/marketing left Carrie feeling uninspired, and she gave up her safe but ultimately unfulfilling career to help her father with his toy business. After spending a week at the prestigious Nuremberg International Toy Fair, she felt compelled to create a space of her own, where she could promote the wares of a carefully selected group of niche toymakers and artisans:

"In every case, the toys that managed to catch my eye were toys made by individuals. In addition, I found that each of these toys had their own, unique wonderful story. While the toymakers themselves were there to promote their toys, upon introduction of yourself, you learned who these artisans were as people and could immediately sense the passion and pride they had for their craft – something you just don’t find in today’s fast paced, technology-driven, plastic world."

After years of traveling around the horse show/trade fair circuit, and a couple of holiday seasons with a stand at the Ardmore Farmer's Market in Ardmore, PA, Carrie finally opened up a brick-and-mortar shop just a few minutes down the road, on Cricket Avenue in Ardmore. The exposed brick, tin ceiling, and wooden floors are the perfect setting for pucciManuli's veritable menagerie of giant stuffed animals, (works of art, really), puzzles, pillows, puppets, blankets, books and house gifts.

breathtaking Hansa handmade elephant lording over the shop. 

Stevenson Brothers rocking horse.

The shop includes an incredible variety of speciality goods, ranging from $6 Austrian, handmade wooden spinning tops to $20,000 custom Stevenson Brothers rocking horses from England. Carrie chooses toys for her shop that have the power to create distinct and meaningful narratives, whether it be the history of the toy or the backstory of the toymaker, each piece is extraordinary and very much worth holding on to.

Silk-screened animal pillows are made by a couple of local artists in nearby Bucks County, PA.

NY-based Lands Downunder Italian Herringbone throw blankets.

The full collection is available online at www.pucciManuli.com, along with profiles of some of the toymakers she features. Her selection of bespoke, limited edition, heirloom, and one-of-a-kind pieces is truly unrivaled. Our children need to grow up hearing stories, creating their own, and passing them down. Shopping conscientiously is a mindset and a lifestyle that can never be taught too early. So, skip the BLACK FRIDAY sales at Toys 'R Us and have a chat with Carrie Kohs instead. She'll help you find the perfect special "something."

Additionally, Carrie donates a portion of her profits to children's charities such as UNICEF, to help allow every child realize his/her right to a fair shot in this world.

After the jump... some shots from the pucciManuli booth at the Hampton Classic Horse Show, and the important interview I did with one of the resident primates.

Tradlands Vol. 2 Collection Launch!

Happy Labor Day! To help take the sting out of the oncoming shorter days and cooler weather, I'd like to celebrate the launch of San Francisco-based Tradlands Vol. 2 collection, and offer my readers a special discount code at the end of this post. Way back in February I featured the Vol. 1 buttondown shirts and admired their beautiful detailing and impeccable fit, and now they're back with an exciting new set that are even more impressive. 

My old favorite, the "Hayes Valley," has been transformed into the "Hayes & Laguna" with a lighter weight cotton, and I love the retro plaid of the "Pier 7." There are some brighter color options in the new collection as well, such as the minty "Sea Cliff" and the lavender "Cole Valley." They'll make great summer/fall transition pieces when paired with some deeper fall colors... or just your favorite dark pair of Levi's. Aside from searching for the best fabrics and buttons, co-founder Sadie's focus has always been on getting the best fit possible. Ladies can now achieve tomboy style without struggling to find shirts that aren't too baggy or too snug in the wrong places. All of the shirts are made in small batches right in San Francisco, and each one is named after a part of the city. I've said enough, though. These shots from their lookbook make it clear that these shirts have no problem speaking for themselves.

Tradlands "Fort Point" red/black flannel, $147

Tradlands "Pier 7", $127

The prices range from $127-$187, which is surprisingly reasonable for garments made locally of such high quality fabrics. However, Tradlands is offering a special discount to readers of The Dappled Waistcoat to celebrate their big Vol. 2 launch.

Enter "thedappledwaistcoat10" at checkout to get 10% off your entire order from the Tradlands site!

I'd love to see some photos of the new shirts in action - tag me @aezeum or @tradlands on Instagram, or shoot me an email at dappledwaistcoat@gmail.com! 

Four Legged Finery of the Hound Persuasion

Before you say anything: 1) I know! 2) I'm sorry! I've been busier than I'd ever imagined this summer. Between working, riding, and spending every nice day off going outside and soaking in the sun, I definitely neglected my bloggerly duties. HOWEVER, in the spirit of that "go outside and do something" attitude, I've been inspired by a chat with Morgan Cummins of the new UK-based Houndworthy to do a post dedicated to the active-lifestyle dog owner.

Houndworthy and I got in touch after discovering our mutual affection for Dubarry boots via Twitter. After a couple of emails back and forth, I saw that the Houndworthy mission was very close to my own objective with this blog. Co-founder Morgan explained their goal as such:

"The strategy behind our brand visual approach is to create this immersive experience where it should make you actually wish you were outside somewhere (with hound) and not sittin' indoors lookin' at a website! ... providing the impetus for people to go and do more rewarding things; and buying and using better goods is part of that."

Though they've likened themselves to a canine-oriented Patagonia or North Face type of lifestyle brand, I would even venture to compare their online branding strategy to something like Anthropologie. Anthro works by assaulting all of your senses as soon as you enter the store: the scented candles burning, the music playing, the look of the staff, the store visuals, etc. It's a truly visceral experience, and Houndworthy has managed to skillfully achieve this and more without the physicality of a brick-and-mortar shop. Creative Director Morgan and his partner Jo Holdaway have fused their talents to create this amazing brand, and use their own hounds as models, muses, and test subjects for the array of unique dog toys, leads, collars, clothing, and accessories on the site. Don't get it twisted, though. You're not going to find pink and blue gendered doggie collars with paw print designs, or dog t-shirts with corny phrases screened on in Comic Sans. This is hardworking dog gear for folks with a more refined aesthetic.

(all taken from their Instagram: @houndworthy)

Another brand with a purpose is Found My Animal, a Brooklyn-based brand making fisherman style rope leads, collars, and accessories. They're also dedicated advocates of animal rescue, partnering with local rescue organizations and foster programs to help shelter pups find homes. Aside from the fact that their goods are super cool, I love that they go over and beyond to do their part helping needy dogs in the community.

I've got a serious soft spot for rescue dogs. My own pup is a 3 year old Dachshund mix named Otto that I rescued when he was a little 5 pound morsel, and my life has never been the same. Having a dog has gotten me outside, led me to conversations with complete strangers, and brought me to a much happier spiritual place as an independent explorer of this world.

He's a pain to find good gear for though, since he's very long and skinny, and has a neck like a little goose. That certainly didn't stop us from making a wishlist though!

Since it was Dubarry that originally brought Houndworthy and myself together, the Galway boot must be included. I live in my brown Galways, but I've always thought a black/mahogany pair would be rather striking for dogwalking, since Otto and I would then match. Morgan had his own Dubarry testimonial: "I have a pair of Dubarry gamekeeper boots... I love them. They come up to my knees and keep anything out! I've gone across rivers in Scotland 2ft deep, they are awesome." I can only dream of trudging through rivers in Scotland. Morgan -- I envy you!

It's very annoying that Otto can't wear regular collars... his neck is just too skinny and they always rub off his fur. The plaid button bandanna from Houndworthy would probably look AMAZING on him though. The Natural Leash from Found My Animal is sharp, and made in the USA, fisherman-style, from high-quality materials. I see this look improvised at horse shows a lot by people who just use their horse's lead rope as a leash, but FMA's version is a huge upgrade. As for that slick canvas satchel... be still my heart. I make no secret of my difficult relationship with handbags, but this one is exactly my style. It would be perfect for carrying all my stuff, and I'd even throw Otto's favorite ball in there too.

Go forth and explore! And when you're done doing that, go outside!

Houndworthy

Found My Animal 

Dubarry

the Tale behind the Ties at PINO Portland

Yet again, Twitter has proven an invaluable resource for me in finding exciting new brands and meeting interesting people. I was flattered when Crispin Argento of PINO Portland reached out to me to scope their new site, and naturally obliged. What I found was a crisp, straightforward design that let the product stand out on its own. PINO offers a rainbow of neckties and bowties, all made of raw silk. At first I thought the solid colors were a bit plain, being accustomed to seeing all the elaborate prints and patterns that many other neckwear makers are implementing. Upon further inspection though, I decided that the raw silk was perfectly understated and elegant. Regardless of how vivid or subdued the hue of the tie, the striking texture of raw silk draws the eye in without being too flashy. 

I asked Crispin why raw silk was his "weapon of choice," and he explained:

I chose the solid raw silk for a variety of reasons. As a designer, I am drawn to color and texture, two things mainstream menswear is slow to embrace, although things are changing, albeit slowly. When I began PINO, I started using heavy wools, upholstery fabrics, etc. to achieve my aesthetic. As the line grew, I didn’t want to work with jobbers (fabric resellers) any longer because I didn’t know the origin or provenance of the fabrics I was using and this type of sourcing did not align well with my quest for transparency, telling a story, and facilitating a closer relationship between consumers and their clothing.

I am working with a distributer that has a direct relationship with a family run mill in Bangalore, India, where the raw silk is harvested from Mulberry worms, and hand-spun, woven on treadle looms and dyed by hand.

Since raw silk is not common, especially in neckties, customers often are curious and mistake the raw silk for linen. When I tell them it’s hand-woven raw silk it spurs curiosity and provides a lead in for sharing with them the story of where it is from, how it is produced, why it feels and drapes a specific way, etc. They often like the part of why it is slightly gummy and smells sweet, I tell them it is because the fibers are not chemically processed like traditional silks. This helps to forge a relationship between the consumer and the garment.

I love Crispin's focus on storytelling, and it's definitely something that sets PINO apart. This passion for the creative process, from the mulberry worm to the final product, extends beyond the PINO brand onto the community of craftspeople and small businesses in Portland. PINO has already done several successful collaborations with local businesses, such as Sterling Coffee Roasters, Hand-Eye Supply, PICA, and even a local vegan bakery. They have a project in the works to create ties made from fabric sourced entirely from Oregon, and Crispin is a board member of Portland Made, a small business collective aiming to foster a greater connection between local consumers, designers, and manufacturers.  Portland is a "perfect storm" for creative people looking to start a business right now: cost of living is low, access to resources is high, and retail rent is significantly lower than places like New York. Ergo, small business boom.

I learned the story of the ties, and the story of the city, but what enchanted me the most was the initial inspiration behind creating PINO.

Early on I decided to start with neckwear because it is one of the only options a guy has to really stand out, especially in the era of “casual” is king. The purpose of having bright, fun, and textured colors for a necktie, bow tie or pocket kerchief is that they serve as the focal point of ones outfit and stand out. There is not a day that goes by that someone doesn’t comment on a PINO tie I am wearing, it invites discussion and allows me to tell my story and the story of the tie. Sometimes I want to be left alone, so I wear a boring tie or no tie at all. Ties, believe it or not, open doors and invite conversation nowadays.

Now that I have a PINO bowtie of my very own, I can attest to the immaculate craftsmanship and the beauty of the silk.

Luckily, I'm in the business of starting conversations.

SHOP PINO

Say Hello to Hank!

If you haven't already acquainted yourself with the Hank brand, I'm pleased to be the one making the introductions. A few Michigan natives started developing the brand this past fall, and in April they finally launched. I discovered Hank through Twitter, and soon recognized the same enthusiasm for good gear, and quality > quantity mindset that I have myself. Co-founder Adam Rice and I were able to connect over the phone a few weeks ago, and he gave me the scoop on the philosophy behind the Hank brand and what developments are to come.

Adam emphasized that in getting their Spring 2013 Collection together, consistent price points were a priority. The shame about the "made in USA" movement, he explained, is that customers have grown so accustomed to price gouging that they assume all fine quality American goods have to be expensive. When these customers see something more reasonably priced, they automatically assume that the quality isn't there, and that's just not correct. According to Adam, it's really not as expensive to manufacture here as people think. That being said, the Hank folks collaborated with some favorite American brands (Parrott Canvas Co., Pointer Brand, Ebbets Field, etc.) to create some exclusive items. Through their debut collection, Hank has established itself as a marketplace for thoughtfully curated American goods. The people of Hank are interested as much in the story behind a brand as they are in the goods themselves. This emphasis on people and stories turns their collection into a narrative that reads as much more than just a shop with some hats and shirts... it's a conversation about the American experience.

The move that Hank aims to make, however, is becoming a distinctive BRAND all on their own. While the Fall collection will include more collaborations with Pointer Brand (look for a few new Chore coats tweaked just for Hank), they're looking to put out their own shirting and chinos as well, and are enjoying going through the design process for the first time.

The folks at Hank have the right combination of ambition, integrity, and passion for fine men's goods. The Spring Collection includes a bunch of classic must-haves, and as the brand comes into their own I'm sure they'll come out with plenty of new favorites. As an un-femme lady, I have a few Hank picks of my own.

SHOP HANK