The Summer Five

The other night Kyle, aka Mr. Waistcoat, randomly asked me "So I see here on the blog you did a Fall Five... what are your Five Picks for Summer?" I don't know what made him go on my blog or why he's curious about what I'd buy if funds were endless... but he inspired me to have a crack at it. He's up in Boston right now training for his new job at Made in USA superstar brand Ball and Buck, so this is also an exercise in helping me pass the time.

Interestingly, this is one of the first times that I've made a pick list from which I've already purchased some items. I guess window shopping stopped being empowering enough and I needed to start biting the bullet?

 1. Blue Chambray Popover by Gitman Brothers Vintage, $156 from Need Supply Co. This shirt is so basic it could have its own late 90's Gap commercial with an assortment of racially diverse and eclectic artists bouncing around an all-white stage to a carefully choreographed yet whimsical song. No but really, you'll throw it on the floor at night and then put it back on the next day... and the next day... and 2. Angler sunglasses in Medium Yellow HD PC by Ball and Buck x Randolph Engineering, $188. Not a bad price for Randolphs, ever. Lifetime guarantee too. At the rate that guys break sunglasses your ROI with these suckers is pretty high. They won't do you too much good on super bright days but at least you'll look dope and slightly 80s-ish. 3. Camp Shorts by Topo Designs, $89. Kyle and I have been oogling these shorts since we first got the email blast about them. Practical looking without the bro cargo shorts thing happening. Necessary. 4. Corsica loafer by Dubarry of Ireland, $199. I'm a little biased, but I've seen similar driving style loafers by a few other brands, even made in Europe and similar price points, but Dubarry have been in the business of making shoes for almost 80 years now and these mocs are a home run. 5. Coral Print suit by Saturdays NYC, $75. I just love this print. Coral camo? Maybe. Get these. Girls will flock to you.

1.  Palm Tree Scoopback Suit by JCrew, $110. Let me preface this by saying that I've spent 2 years looking for a one piece that I was willing to drop coin on and I ended up with this! A throwback that looks like something I actually had when I was 6 years old. Made in USA (wow, go JCrew!) from a photo taken by a JCrew designer of a similar suit they made in the 90s. 2. Sigmund sunglasses by Acne Studios, $360. Acetate frames, made in France. They're beautiful, and you can't gripe about the price because you're paying for exquisite design. Or you could go to Urban and get $15 knockoffs that will make you go blind and promptly fall apart. 3. Teal fade collar by Found My Animal, $56. Made in Brooklyn by people who are passionate about animal rescue. Otto has been batting his dog eyelashes at me in hopes of getting one of these for a long time. Blue's the thing this summer and we like to match. 4. Sailboat trucker hat by Wampum NY, $25. Designed in NY, so, and I had to get it because my Strong Brand camo trucker has gone missing and I'm on the verge of suicide. 5. All Black tote by Filson, $140. If this bag were a person, and you looked at it the wrong way, you don't want to know what would happen to you. For now I'd like it to chill out and hold my sunblock, books, and beach throw awhile. 

Spring Picks and Mother's Day Tips!

It's been a busy Spring so far, the height of which was the Rolex Kentucky 3-Day Event April 24-27. Aside from enjoying the sights and sounds of Lexington, KY, I met a ton of well dressed men and ladies who have inspired my S/S wardrobe mindset and my choice spring selections this year. The overarching lesson of Spring 2014: just because it's bright, doesn't mean it matches. Everyone needs to RELAX with the day-glo rainbows of self-consciously preppy garb. Your entire ensemble doesn't need to consist of accent pieces. I call for a return to minimalism and subtlety!

Anyway, I realized after returning from Kentucky that Mother's Day is right around the corner. Yet again we must scour the earth, searching for a perfect gift for our angelic, martyr mothers: "don't get me anything, you're my real gift" -- YEAH OKAY MOM. On a side note, I've reached the ripe age of twenty-somethingness where plenty of my peers are mothers. I'm therefore opting to make this not exclusively a "MOM" gift guide, but a little taste of lovely things for all ladies this Spring. Don't worry guys, I didn't forget about you either.

1. Dubarry of Ireland "Menorca" in Sky, $149. The newest color update to Dubarry's timeless ladies deck shoe, in super soft sky blue leather with non-slip, non-marking soles. They're so pretty (yes, pretty) that I'm not even opposed to mother-daughter matching pairs.
2. Shinola "The Runwell" 41mm watch, $625. A hint of retro styling with a classic, minimalist profile. All handcrafted in Detroit. Stainless steel body powered by Detroit-made Argonite 1069 high-quality quartz movement. Understated, subtle, but luxurious. These are the keywords for my SS14 philosophy.

3. Bottega Veneta perfume, $90 and up. A lush blend of fresh floral notes and subtle leather undertones. In short, it's what I wouldn't mind smelling like every day this season. Not too feminine, not musky, just light and balanced. I strongly suggest you go to a store and smell it yourself. 

1. Altru Apparel "Tropical Lunch Woven," $40. After reading multiple editorials about the grand return of the Hawaiian shirt, I'm happy to see an American-made version from Los Angeles' Altru at a happy price. The quasi Warhol graphics give a user-friendly edge for those a bit wary of looking too "Aloha." 

2. General Knot "Apricot Oxford and Micro Gingham Necktie," $88. I'm a sucker for shades of peach, apricot, and tangerine (re: my PINO tangelo bowtie of yore). It's as close to pink as I'm ever willing to get. The texture in the apricot fabric adds just the right about of roughness to an otherwise cheeky color. Consider yourself fully armed for whatever weddings, dates, awkward family occasions, etc. that the season may throw your way.

3. Moscot "Randall" in Chameleon, $295. You want to know why I love Moscot? They've been based in New York for about a hundred years, and though they've certainly grown, they never sacrificed style or quality in the process. Sure you can get cheapos that look pretty similar, but you can literally feel the history and Moscot legacy oozing out of these frames. So worth it.

Confession: even the items I choose for guys are things I want for myself.

Guest Writer Dope Design Feature: KZ on Topo Designs

Being a full time traveler, both by nature and profession, brought me to Denver, Colorado in January. This trip gave me the opportunity to scope out a place that has been on my radar since it opened: the Topo Designs flagship store. I've always seen their bags online and been legitimately stoked about the aesthetics of their bags and the ethos of their brand, so walking in to their shop was incredibly exciting for me. Every bag is made right here in the USA in a LEED certified building that has a view of the Rockies; I got to experience the brand at its source. Their bags are simple, classic, stylish, and they provide you with exactly what you need in terms of function. No frills.

I was pleasantly surprised to see that they carried other exciting brands in their store, such as Randolph Engineering, who make my trusty aviator sunglasses, and Woolrich Woolen Mills, hailing from my beloved home state of Pennsylvania. Topo does an awesome collaboration with Woolrich, as seen in the photo I took as I stepped into their store.

Upon entering, I was greeted by a super knowledgeable guy named Josh who walked me through all of the bags that Topo Designs has to offer. I have seen similar, cheaper bags on the market in both style and function but for a few extra bucks, I think it's worthwhile to support the thoughtful design, quality, and philosophy that goes into every Topo product. Josh unknowingly led me to the one that was exactly what I needed: the Mountain Briefcase. It's available in the three colors pictured below, but I came to the conclusion that Duck Camo was the obvious choice for me.

Since I am writing this after having used the bag for nearly two months, I can tell you with certainty that this has been the ultimate bag for all of my needs. It can be used like a traditional two-handle briefcase that comes with a removable shoulder strap, but it also has stowaway backpack straps that allow you to carry it from inside the office straight to the mountaintop. Within a week of buying my bag I took it to ski slopes, mountain trails, the airport, and the workplace. I could comfortably fit my snacks, water bottle, and extra clothing layers for being on the mountain, which I then switched out to fit two laptops, some documents, and notebooks for the workplace. I decided to pick up the accessory straps which can be attached to the leather lash tabs on the outside of the bag. This comes in handy if you need to carry more than you can stow away inside your bag. There are also some cinch straps on the base of the bag. These cinches were useful for strapping down my jacket when I had to take it off as I began to overheat on my hike.

It goes without saying that I am now officially a Topo Designs fan for life. If you need a bag, check them out. I know Anne has been coveting some gear from Topo for over two years now and, after allowing me to blog about them, she'll probably order something very soon.

TopoDesigns.com

Tradlands Vol. 2 Collection Launch!

Happy Labor Day! To help take the sting out of the oncoming shorter days and cooler weather, I'd like to celebrate the launch of San Francisco-based Tradlands Vol. 2 collection, and offer my readers a special discount code at the end of this post. Way back in February I featured the Vol. 1 buttondown shirts and admired their beautiful detailing and impeccable fit, and now they're back with an exciting new set that are even more impressive. 

My old favorite, the "Hayes Valley," has been transformed into the "Hayes & Laguna" with a lighter weight cotton, and I love the retro plaid of the "Pier 7." There are some brighter color options in the new collection as well, such as the minty "Sea Cliff" and the lavender "Cole Valley." They'll make great summer/fall transition pieces when paired with some deeper fall colors... or just your favorite dark pair of Levi's. Aside from searching for the best fabrics and buttons, co-founder Sadie's focus has always been on getting the best fit possible. Ladies can now achieve tomboy style without struggling to find shirts that aren't too baggy or too snug in the wrong places. All of the shirts are made in small batches right in San Francisco, and each one is named after a part of the city. I've said enough, though. These shots from their lookbook make it clear that these shirts have no problem speaking for themselves.

Tradlands "Fort Point" red/black flannel, $147

Tradlands "Pier 7", $127

The prices range from $127-$187, which is surprisingly reasonable for garments made locally of such high quality fabrics. However, Tradlands is offering a special discount to readers of The Dappled Waistcoat to celebrate their big Vol. 2 launch.

Enter "thedappledwaistcoat10" at checkout to get 10% off your entire order from the Tradlands site!

I'd love to see some photos of the new shirts in action - tag me @aezeum or @tradlands on Instagram, or shoot me an email at dappledwaistcoat@gmail.com! 

Spring Picks for Dandies, PLUS a San Francisco Special Feature!

I love boots and flannel as much as any red-blooded American, but winter has definitely lost its novelty for me. For weeks I've been suffering through Men's Fashion Week, demoralizing winter blowout sales full of rumpled disorganized sweaters and outerwear, and watching in agony while bloggers and storefronts alike prematurely let some bathing suits and linen shirts trickle out.

No worries, though! Spring is here (kind of)... and I'm extremely excited about all the fresh, dapper looks. American brands have really stepped up this season, and it's cause for a lot of celebration. Later in the post, I'm excited to share the launch of a new San Francisco-based women's shirt line, Tradlands, a welcome solution to the problem of finding quality, American-made buttondown shirts for gals. 

My inspiration for Spring this year is delicately executed menswear on ladies. It's a bit harder to do feminized menswear in the winter, because the weight of the fabrics and the necessity of layering for the cold tends to leave women looking shapeless. At least, that's what my problem has always been. When I saw this preview of General Knot & Co.'s Spring skinnies, though, I got a surge of inspiration. Slimmer proportions and good tailoring allows women to appropriate menswear in a way that's really empowering and creative. 

Also, for the record, the words "It will be mine... oh yes... it will be mine" left my lips as soon as I laid eyes on that little floral number. Knowing how limited the runs of General Knot's ties are, I checked every day until the new collection launched and ordered it. Only 12 of that floral tie were made. Not sure how many are left now, but please believe I got mine!

As you see above, I love it with my old reliable chambray shirt (J Crew, $70), but I look forward to pairing it with my lavender Ralph Lauren oxford shirt, and my RL Rugby sage and white stripe oxford. As soon as I get a Tradlands shirt, I'll obviously wear it with that too. 

Other ties I'd love to add to my collection:

Forage "Grey Floral" necktie,  $78

The Tie Bar "Knitted Kneats" silk knit in Mauve/Ivory, $15

The Tie Bar silk knit bow tie in Coral, $15 

the Hill-side "Modified Herringbone" in White, $90 at Hickorees

The grey floral tie from Forage is perfect. The neutral color is really versatile and allows it to be paired with almost anything, but the floral pattern is subtle and carries a strong Spring vibe. All of the neckwear from the Philadelphia-based haberdashery is made in limited runs from vintage and deadstock cotton fabrics. Ergo, the ties are a bit more pricy than the set $15 ones at The Tie Bar, but you're paying for a certain level of exclusivity and craftsmanship that's a bit more intimate. I love having a few really special pieces like my General Knot floral, but for the average person The Tie Bar is a great option because it allows you to stock up on stylish ties that are still made by hand. My message therefore, is achieving great style through budgetary balance.

As far as the Modified Herringbone tie from the Hill-side goes... all I have to say is, watch this video:

Old Virginia: The Hill-Side's "Modified Herringbone" Fabric from The Hill-Side on Vimeo.

San Francisco presents: TRADLANDS

Today, February 5th, marks the launch of Tradlands: a collection of women's shirts designed and hand-sewn in SF. For their debut line, they've paired fabrics including raw denim and fine cotton plaid with neat details like lacquered brass snaps to create a feminine silhouette that is still conscious of the needs of a rugged, on-the-go kind of gal. These shirts would be equally at home with sleeves rolled up, digging in a garden as they would paired with some great jeans and accessories to go about town. Whether you're dressing them up or down, the shirts have a distinctly American sensibility that will never appear out of place. My personal favorite is the "Hayes Valley," made of a beautiful mid-weight chambray that would go PERFECTLY with my skinny tie from General Knot (cough, cough, nudge, nudge). As these shots from their lookbook show, though, the whole collection is well thought-out and carefully designed.

Tradlands "Hayes Valley" shirt, $147

Speaking of accessories to match up with your sparkly new Tradlands shirt... my friend Victoria of San Francisco's Our House Vintage and Design has some of her signature feather bow-ties in refreshing Spring colors. To make the bow ties, she layers hand-dyed feathers on leather backing, with velvet ribbon serving as the neck strap. She also uses remnant leather in an effort to recycle, and like most handmade goods, only a limited amount of each color are made. She does custom work too, so if there's a color you don't see in her Etsy shop don't hesitate to send her a message!

It's really cool to watch San Francisco develop into a creative mecca for handmade products and innovative design. I wish Sadie and Jeremy of Tradlands the best of luck with their launch, and I thank them on behalf of women everywhere for making lovely and hardworking shirts!

Brands and shops from this post:

General Knot & Co.

the Tie-Bar

Forage

the Hill-side

Tradlands

Our House Vintage and Design

Spring Shades: SHURON Edition

Before I begin, I'm obliged to tell you that proper sunglasses are a YEAR ROUND necessity, not just for April-August. However, Spring does bring sunny days and people tend to spend more time outside, so what better time to upgrade your look? I recently got a pair of prescription Ray Ban "New Clubmaster" sunglasses (see Figure A). Shortly after picking them up, I discovered that the Clubmasters are made in China. If I had realized before, I honestly would have opted for something else. The vast majority of Ray Bans are still made in Italy, but I guess that due to the complexity of producing frames that have both metal and plastic components, it is more cost-effective to manufacture certain styles in China.

Figure A

After putting Ray Ban on blast via Twitter (they didn't care), a follower recommended Shuron to me. Since 1865, Shuron Ltd have been making eyewear in Greenville, South Carolina. Their frames are decidedly retro, because the designs literally have not changed since the time when "retro" was "modern." Honestly, some are so retro that they have not yet been recycled into what's considered hip... but I'm sure they will sooner or later. What's amazing about Shuron, and an indictment of the major eyewear corporations, is that these Made in USA frames are incredibly affordable. A pair of polarized sunglasses from Shuron runs roughly $160-185, depending on the style.

As much as I love and respect Warby Parker and Classic Specs, and I'm sure the materials they use are excellent, their frames are still manufactured in China. That's why they're less than a hundred bucks, folks. Let's use our heads. You have to take the bad with the good, for sure. WP donates glasses to people in need, and CP donates a percentage of their profits to charity. Awesome. However, in lieu of donating to charity, why not find a way to produce your glasses in the US and create actual jobs for people in this country? Personally, I'd rather pay 50 bucks more for something that's made here. That's where Shuron comes in.

Shuron "Sidewinder" in Demi Amber/Gray

Shuron "Freeway" in Black Fade w/ Green/Gray

Shuron "Freeway" in Demi Gray/Gray

Shuron "Ronsir Revelation" in Black Briar

The Freeway and the Sidewinder are both Wayfarer-type styles. The major differences between the two  would be the thicker arms and double rivet feature on the Sidewinder vs the metal bar detail on the Freeway. The Ronsir is a Clubmaster style, which they offer in a few different variations. I like the Revelation model because the lens size is a bit smaller, akin to my "New Clubmaster." 

The photos speak for themselves. There's no question that Shuron's designs can compete with the trendiest companies out there, but their humble origins have rendered them the best kept secret among retro eyewear aficionados. 

The easiest way to explore their selection is right at the source, www.shuron.com. 

Shopping Small and Smart for Femmes

I very often see other people going to stores like Forever 21 and buying three shirts and two pairs of pants for what I'd normally spend on one top and one bottom elsewhere, and I just can't bring myself to join in. Mass consumerism is a tricky thing, because we've been conditioned to focus more on the "bang for your buck" factor while completely overlooking the quality component of our purchases. If researchers did a study on people that shop primarily at stores like Forever 21 versus people who buy less but focus more on quality, I am CERTAIN that they would find that the bargain shoppers are ultimately spending just as much, if not more, because the clothes they buy do not last and need to regularly be replaced. This, my friends, is how marketing works. Oh wow, you got 3 shirts for $20?! That's awesome! Then they go through the wash once or twice and the fabric is threadbare and falling apart, and the stitching is coming out. Big mass-production companies like this would like us to think they're doing us a huge favor and giving us deals, but really they're just scamming you into spending more over time. I am not too proud to admit that stores like this do have their utility. If I get a last-minute invitation to a party or social function that I don't particularly care about and I need a quick outfit, I'll go to one of those stores and grab a dress for $30. Guilty as charged, but that's fine, since convenience is definitely a relevant factor to the way we spend our money.

My attitude towards my wardrobe is obviously similar to my shopping philosophy. The wardrobe to me is a living, changing organism: it evolves constantly, but essentially remains the same organism. I don't pay too much attention to trends, particularly ones that stray too far from the overarching color palette/vibe of my style. By doing this, I eliminate the need to shop en masse for new clothes each season and discard/donate the unwanted tattered wears of last season. I instead shop each season for a few new pieces that can enhance, update, and coordinate with things I already have. The pieces I have last for years because they are well-made and cost a bit more, but it evens out. A "must-have" in my book isn't something super lavish and on-point with the trend of the moment, it's something fresh and new but still versatile and timeless. 

My lecturing is through for the moment. To further argue my case, however, are great pieces that are made in USA and will stand the test of time and the seasons. You can start taking notes.

Shelter Half is a Los Angeles collective of made in America brands that started up about a year ago. They share my ideals of "conscious commerce" and mindful encouragement of manufacturing and design talents within the USA. The site has an extensive variety of goods, including apparel, housewear, furniture, and accessories. While I adamantly support their cause, I will say that I find the pricing on a lot of their goods to be rather prohibitive for the average starving artist (myself). For example, their eyewear averages from $340 to $595 for a pair of "Retrospecs" frames, with little to no description of the glasses themselves to justify the pricing. Anyone that desperate to look like a character from Mad Men could easily just go to Warby Parker and get a pair for less than a hundred bucks. My pricing criticisms aside, I did find a dress that I felt was worth the price.

Clothilde "Biarritz" Dress from Shelter Half, $185

Behold, the Biarritz dress. This kimono-style dress from Shelter Half is a color that I ordinarily wouldn't go for, but the simplicity of the dress allows for accessorizing to suit multiple seasons. The $185 for such a minimalist design finds its value in (I'm assuming) the craftsmanship of the piece and its versatility. This dress would be super comfortable for warmer weather with a floppy hat and a pair of espadrilles, and for fall/winter, i.e. now, I'd pair this with textured knit tights and short boots like Blundstone 500's or even L.L. Bean boots. Up top, throw on a cozy scarf with complementing colors like the 10,000 Lakes Scarf from Mrs. P.Hicks (below).

Mrs. P. Hicks 10,000 Lakes Scarf in Gray (top) and Blue, $62

These scarves are proudly made in USA at one of our oldest knitting mills. I'd probably opt for the gray with the Biarritz dress just because I'd want to neutralize the orange, but the dress is simple enough that you could more or less go crazy with chunky knitted accessories to spruce it up.

My point here is that you could spent $185 on a dress, which with the right accessories you could basically wear year-round, or you could spend $185 on several dresses, poorly constructed with low-quality fabrics that will look like garbage after a few heavy rounds of use. If your sense of self-worth is not dependent upon the sheer quantity of garments hanging in your closet, my less-is-more-is-less philosophy should appeal to you. If up until this point you've been driven solely by bargain hunting, I hope that this crash course in quality-economics has been a least a little enlightening. 

Shelter Half

Mrs. P.Hicks