Yet again, Twitter has proven an invaluable resource for me in finding exciting new brands and meeting interesting people. I was flattered when Crispin Argento of PINO Portland reached out to me to scope their new site, and naturally obliged. What I found was a crisp, straightforward design that let the product stand out on its own. PINO offers a rainbow of neckties and bowties, all made of raw silk. At first I thought the solid colors were a bit plain, being accustomed to seeing all the elaborate prints and patterns that many other neckwear makers are implementing. Upon further inspection though, I decided that the raw silk was perfectly understated and elegant. Regardless of how vivid or subdued the hue of the tie, the striking texture of raw silk draws the eye in without being too flashy.
I asked Crispin why raw silk was his "weapon of choice," and he explained:
I learned the story of the ties, and the story of the city, but what enchanted me the most was the initial inspiration behind creating PINO.
I chose the solid raw silk for a variety of reasons. As a designer, I am drawn to color and texture, two things mainstream menswear is slow to embrace, although things are changing, albeit slowly. When I began PINO, I started using heavy wools, upholstery fabrics, etc. to achieve my aesthetic. As the line grew, I didn’t want to work with jobbers (fabric resellers) any longer because I didn’t know the origin or provenance of the fabrics I was using and this type of sourcing did not align well with my quest for transparency, telling a story, and facilitating a closer relationship between consumers and their clothing.
I am working with a distributer that has a direct relationship with a family run mill in Bangalore, India, where the raw silk is harvested from Mulberry worms, and hand-spun, woven on treadle looms and dyed by hand.
Since raw silk is not common, especially in neckties, customers often are curious and mistake the raw silk for linen. When I tell them it’s hand-woven raw silk it spurs curiosity and provides a lead in for sharing with them the story of where it is from, how it is produced, why it feels and drapes a specific way, etc. They often like the part of why it is slightly gummy and smells sweet, I tell them it is because the fibers are not chemically processed like traditional silks. This helps to forge a relationship between the consumer and the garment.I love Crispin's focus on storytelling, and it's definitely something that sets PINO apart. This passion for the creative process, from the mulberry worm to the final product, extends beyond the PINO brand onto the community of craftspeople and small businesses in Portland. PINO has already done several successful collaborations with local businesses, such as Sterling Coffee Roasters, Hand-Eye Supply, PICA, and even a local vegan bakery. They have a project in the works to create ties made from fabric sourced entirely from Oregon, and Crispin is a board member of Portland Made, a small business collective aiming to foster a greater connection between local consumers, designers, and manufacturers. Portland is a "perfect storm" for creative people looking to start a business right now: cost of living is low, access to resources is high, and retail rent is significantly lower than places like New York. Ergo, small business boom.
I learned the story of the ties, and the story of the city, but what enchanted me the most was the initial inspiration behind creating PINO.
Early on I decided to start with neckwear because it is one of the only options a guy has to really stand out, especially in the era of “casual” is king. The purpose of having bright, fun, and textured colors for a necktie, bow tie or pocket kerchief is that they serve as the focal point of ones outfit and stand out. There is not a day that goes by that someone doesn’t comment on a PINO tie I am wearing, it invites discussion and allows me to tell my story and the story of the tie. Sometimes I want to be left alone, so I wear a boring tie or no tie at all. Ties, believe it or not, open doors and invite conversation nowadays.
Luckily, I'm in the business of starting conversations.
SHOP PINO
