the Tale behind the Ties at PINO Portland

Yet again, Twitter has proven an invaluable resource for me in finding exciting new brands and meeting interesting people. I was flattered when Crispin Argento of PINO Portland reached out to me to scope their new site, and naturally obliged. What I found was a crisp, straightforward design that let the product stand out on its own. PINO offers a rainbow of neckties and bowties, all made of raw silk. At first I thought the solid colors were a bit plain, being accustomed to seeing all the elaborate prints and patterns that many other neckwear makers are implementing. Upon further inspection though, I decided that the raw silk was perfectly understated and elegant. Regardless of how vivid or subdued the hue of the tie, the striking texture of raw silk draws the eye in without being too flashy. 

I asked Crispin why raw silk was his "weapon of choice," and he explained:

I chose the solid raw silk for a variety of reasons. As a designer, I am drawn to color and texture, two things mainstream menswear is slow to embrace, although things are changing, albeit slowly. When I began PINO, I started using heavy wools, upholstery fabrics, etc. to achieve my aesthetic. As the line grew, I didn’t want to work with jobbers (fabric resellers) any longer because I didn’t know the origin or provenance of the fabrics I was using and this type of sourcing did not align well with my quest for transparency, telling a story, and facilitating a closer relationship between consumers and their clothing.

I am working with a distributer that has a direct relationship with a family run mill in Bangalore, India, where the raw silk is harvested from Mulberry worms, and hand-spun, woven on treadle looms and dyed by hand.

Since raw silk is not common, especially in neckties, customers often are curious and mistake the raw silk for linen. When I tell them it’s hand-woven raw silk it spurs curiosity and provides a lead in for sharing with them the story of where it is from, how it is produced, why it feels and drapes a specific way, etc. They often like the part of why it is slightly gummy and smells sweet, I tell them it is because the fibers are not chemically processed like traditional silks. This helps to forge a relationship between the consumer and the garment.

I love Crispin's focus on storytelling, and it's definitely something that sets PINO apart. This passion for the creative process, from the mulberry worm to the final product, extends beyond the PINO brand onto the community of craftspeople and small businesses in Portland. PINO has already done several successful collaborations with local businesses, such as Sterling Coffee Roasters, Hand-Eye Supply, PICA, and even a local vegan bakery. They have a project in the works to create ties made from fabric sourced entirely from Oregon, and Crispin is a board member of Portland Made, a small business collective aiming to foster a greater connection between local consumers, designers, and manufacturers.  Portland is a "perfect storm" for creative people looking to start a business right now: cost of living is low, access to resources is high, and retail rent is significantly lower than places like New York. Ergo, small business boom.

I learned the story of the ties, and the story of the city, but what enchanted me the most was the initial inspiration behind creating PINO.

Early on I decided to start with neckwear because it is one of the only options a guy has to really stand out, especially in the era of “casual” is king. The purpose of having bright, fun, and textured colors for a necktie, bow tie or pocket kerchief is that they serve as the focal point of ones outfit and stand out. There is not a day that goes by that someone doesn’t comment on a PINO tie I am wearing, it invites discussion and allows me to tell my story and the story of the tie. Sometimes I want to be left alone, so I wear a boring tie or no tie at all. Ties, believe it or not, open doors and invite conversation nowadays.

Now that I have a PINO bowtie of my very own, I can attest to the immaculate craftsmanship and the beauty of the silk.

Luckily, I'm in the business of starting conversations.

SHOP PINO

An Inside Look at the Strong Brand

I first stumbled upon the Strong Brand several months ago on Instagram, where I've found many new brands and shops. It's really proven to be a great outlet because you don't just see the product, but also the story, the vibe, and the people behind what they're selling. The Strong Brand particularly touched me with their mix of old trucks, shooting photos, outdoorsy scenes, and their hats worn by people in various acts of all-American good fun. From what I can tell, they more or less invented the hashtag #strongsled and now field photo submissions of old beat up trucks from around the country. Why? Because, why not? It's cool, it's what they like, and it's this attitude that made me fall in love with their small line of hats and t-shirts. They're proof that this generation of young, brand-conscious sartorialists isn't dominated by precious hipsters in thick rimmed glasses. Oh no, there are some real, thorough dudes at work here.

I approached Don for an interview piece because I wanted to get to know what this young, small brand is all about. What I inferred from Instagram is that they are proudly American without being cheesily patriotic*, and they don't take themselves too seriously. This is a brand I wanted to know more about, and I figured you'd all feel the same. 
*(see: Dads in tube socks, dirty white Reeboks, baggy jean shorts and an Old Navy t-shirt with the American flag on it, holding a Bud Light in a koozie)

Read the interview after the jump...

Imogene+Willie get REAL about USA manufacturing.

I saw this video thanks to a share from my friends at Tradlands in SanFran. To say that this video encapsulates everything that my blog is about would be a huge understatement. I got the chills while I listened to Matt and Carrie share their story, and tears in my eyes when I saw how emotional and honest they were.

Though I've been told that I have a great eye for design and style, I don't know how to make clothes, and while I'm clever, I don't have the right sort of brain to write a business plan. The only way that I feel I can make some sort of contribution to this cause is by writing about it and hoping that some people out there will read, be inspired, and share with others. I'm as guilty as anyone of having a lot of clothing that's manufactured overseas, and the root of the problem is that clothes made in America are difficult to find and generally a lot more expensive. The fact that it is basically impossible to find a factory in the U.S. capable of large-scale manufacturing of multiple types of wovens/cut+sew garments is honestly startling. There's something dramatically wrong with the current system, and the challenge that Matt and Carrie present to brands like Ralph Lauren will hopefully stir up some awareness among larger, more influential designers. If small, homespun companies can sacrifice profits to manufacture their goods in this country, I see no logical reason why multibillion dollar corporations can't do the same.

Big thanks to Matt and Carrie for sharing your story and throwing down the manufacturing gauntlet,  you are truly an inspiration!

SHOP imogene+willie

EDIT:
Also check out this article from NPR discussing the differences in business practice and philosophy between American Apparel and Forever 21: Fast Fashion's Challenge: Making Money with 'Made in USA'